DIY Projects

Using your pipe wrench turn the hose fittings counterclockwise.

Inside each of the hose fittings are little screen filters, make sure they are clean. Remove them and run clean water through the filters until they are clean.

Check to see if the pump motor is running. If it is not running, use your voltage meter to check the plug socket where it is plugged in. If there is power at the socket but the motor is not running, the motor is burned out and needs to be replaced.

If the motor is running and there is still no pressure to the sprinklers, there is a leak. It might not be a water leak. Air leaks can bleed the pressure and won’t allow the unit to function properly. Using your screwdriver, remove the screws holding the pump together. Where it comes apart there will be a main seal, and there should be a rubber gasket. Check the gasket for any rips or tears. If you find any, replace the gasket.

Secure the gasket area with Teflon paste. Coat the gasket with a heavy coating of Teflon paste. Join the two halves and screw them together. This should solve all air or water leaking problems.

With the summer storm season approaching, now would be a good time to replace any damaged roof shingles you have.

If you have any leftover shingles from the original job, use those. If not go to your local hardware or home improvement store and purchase replacement shingles that match yours.

Lift up the tabs of the shingles above the damaged shingle or shingles. Use a flat pry bar to pry out the nails. Pull out the damaged shingles and clear away any debris.

If the felt underlayment is damaged, cut a piece that is at least 6 inches larger than the damaged area in both directions and slip it into place before replacing the shingle. Drive a couple of staples to hold it in place.

Starting at the bottom and working up, install the replacement shingles. You will have to lift up shingle tabs to drive some of the nails.

Before installing the topmost piece, apply a bead of roofing cement to its underside, near the top. Slip the shingle into place, lift up the tabs above, and drive nails.

Tools needed for this project:

• Utility knife
• Tape measure
• Flat pry bar
• Stapler
• Hammer or roofing hatchet
• Trowel
• Caulk gun

Lawn mower maintenance is a very important ingredient to the welfare of your lawn. Making sure that the blade on your mower is sharp ensures that the blade actually cuts the grass instead of ripping and pulling the grass. Your grass will be much greener and healthier.

Remove the lawn mower blade using an adjustable wrench to remove the bolt from the center of the blade.

Pull the blade off and clamp it in a bench vise.

Check the blade edges for small nicks and remove them using a flat medium file.

Follow the original bevel of the blade and move the file toward the cutting edge with smooth, even strokes. If you are comfortable using a bench grinder or an angle grinder this is also an acceptable way to sharpen the blade. Just make sure that you do not force the blade into the grinder, this will heat the blade and cause the metal of the blade to lose its hardness.

Make sure that you make the same number of strokes on each edge. If you take more metal off of one side than the other, the blade will be out of balance. This will make the lawn mower vibrate, causing serious damage to the engine.

Make sure the blade is balanced by placing the blade on a dowel or the end of a screwdriver. If one side points up, sharpen the other side until the blade lies flat.

This past weekend we went to the RC car races. A friend of ours was racing and we took our carport canopy to set up for him. Since the temperature had skyrocketed this past week, we thought it would be nice to sit in the shade, and have room for all the equipment too.

The canopy is large enough that all 5 of us could sit comfortably and have room for the tables, cars, and the generator. It was easy to set up and provided plenty of shade. When our friend was done racing, it took us about 15 extra minutes to take down the canopy, and then we were on our way.

Now that it is Spring Time we are all getting the urge to get outdside and spruce up the yard or patio. Here is a simple yet attractive idea for a small Water Garden that can be placed on the patio.

Water Garden Materials:

•  Wood
•  Water sealant
•  Plastic liner
•  Water plants (Suggestions:  Japanese sweet flag, arrowhead, common duckweed, broadleaf, stonecrop, houseleek, deer fern, and blue-eyed grass.)
•  Potting soil
•  Pea gravel
•  Gazing ball or other ornament

Water Garden Tools:

•  Handsaw or circular saw
•  Hammer and nails
•  Drill
•  Wood screws, screwdriver

• Gather 1×8-inch cedar boards. (You also can use 1×10 or 1×12 boards to create a deeper pond.) Cut 30-inch lengths for the sides and 15-inch lengths for the ends.

• After assembling the outer frame, measure the interior dimension for the floor of the box. You can use the same 1×8 material for the base or use 3/4-inch exterior plywood. Use a handsaw or circular saw, or have the wood cut by your local home center. Make sure you get straight cuts to minimize gapping.

• Pre-drill holes every 6 inches along the edges of the sides and ends to attach to the bottom piece. Use wood screws to connect the boards, attaching one long side to the base first, then following with the two short sides and finishing with the remaining long side.

• If you want to create a divider—a separate planting bed within the box—cut another piece of wood. Before attaching the divider, try it in different locations to get a look you like. The divider will isolate the water feature from the planting space. We divided our container so one third is for plants and two thirds remain for the water garden.

• Use additional wood screws to fasten the end joints together, drawing the screws tight to minimize any gapping. Apply sealant to lengths of 1×2-inch strips of wood and fasten them to each corner; they will add strength to the box, provide additional sealing, and dress up your box.

• On the inside of the box, install a plastic liner or use a water sealant. If you plan to house fish, choose a sealant that’s safe for aquatic life–read the label carefully or check with an experienced pond fancier.

• Read the directions on the sealant can for the suggested number of coats, and then do one more. Coat both the water area and the garden section. On the garden side, drill two or three holes in the floor to provide drainage for plants.

• Create a composition with plants by selecting ones that vary in form, texture, color, and size. Chose a combination of edge, submerged, and floating plants. Select one plant that will add vertical interest. Line the perimeter with trailing plants that extend the garden outside the box.

• If you’re mixing plants with different growing requirements, place them in containers and set them in the box. Otherwise, fill the garden section with potting soil and choose plants with similar light and watering needs.

• Any floating plants should be placed on a brick so they sit 2 inches below the water surface. Finally, add ornamental elements such as a glass gazing ball or a wrought-iron piece.

• Group plants at the garden center before you buy them to make sure you like how they look together.

• To pot water plants, layer the bottom of the pot with plastic mulch. Mix in a spoonful of a slow-release fertilizer with topsoil and fill the pot to 1 inch below the rim. Dig a hole for the root ball, place it in the soil, and fan out the roots. Cover with about 1 inch of soil. Top-dress with pea gravel.

• Most waterlilies need 3–8 feet of space for spread; however, miniature waterlilies are now available that require only 1-1/2 feet.

• Submerged plants grow beneath the pond surface; they do not need soil to thrive. They are called oxygenators because they add oxygen to the water—a must if you want fish in your water garden.

• Group plants at the garden center before you buy them to make sure you like how they look together.

• To pot water plants, layer the bottom of the pot with plastic mulch. Mix in a spoonful of a slow-release fertilizer with topsoil and fill the pot to 1 inch below the rim. Dig a hole for the root ball, place it in the soil, and fan out the roots. Cover with about 1 inch of soil. Top-dress with pea gravel.

• Most waterlilies need 3–8 feet of space for spread; however, miniature waterlilies are now available that require only 1-1/2 feet.

• Submerged plants grow beneath the pond surface; they do not need soil to thrive. They are called oxygenators because they add oxygen to the water—a must if you want fish in your water garden.

Now that it is Spring Time and the weather has turned beautiful,  here is a Home Improvement Project that will enable you to get more fresh air into the house with very little work or expense. This Project takes little more than an hour.

Step 1 - Measure and Cut

Measure the opening and cut unit (including rails) to size using a hacksaw or reciprocating saw.

Step 2 –  Mount Screen Cartridge

Attach clips and snap cartridge into place.

Step 3 – Secure Track

Mount top and bottom rail and magnetic latch rail with screws provided.

Tools needed for installation:

•  Phillips screwdriver
•  Measuring tape
•  Needle nose pliers
•  Utility knife
•  Drill and drill bits
•  Reciprocating saw or hacksaw with miter box

 Step 1

Before you begin, check the local building code office and see if you need a permit to install fencing. Check with the utility companies to see if there are any underground wire or gas lines buried in your yard. Check your survey to make sure you are planning your fence inside your property lines and are not closing off any easements or right of ways.

 Step 2

Measure and stake off the fence area. Place your corner stakes a few inches beyond where you want the post. Then the string will intersect at the exact spot of the post. The string will give you a straight line to set your line posts. The line posts will go in at certain intervals depending on the type of fence you are installing. Most vinyl fencing is installed with panels. If this is the case, the stakes for your line posts will be set at the same measurement as the length of the panel. Ends and corners are called terminal posts. The posts between them are known as line posts. Make sure you measure and set for the gate or gates.

 Step 3

Dig post holes. Dig the terminal posts first. The hole should be 10 inches in diameter and a third of the post’s length, plus 4 inches deep. Fill the 4 inches in with gravel. Mark your posts with a crayon to the height where you want it to go in the ground. This is normally a third of the post’s length, but it is best to measure with the panel and make sure to get it exact.

 Step 4

Mix concrete and set the posts. Pour concrete into the hole, almost filling it. Put the post in the concrete. Vinyl posts are hollow and as you push the post down the hollow center fills with concrete. Push down until your crayon mark is at ground level. Level the post both at the top with a level and down the side with a post level. You will need to do this right away before the cement starts to set. Then add some concrete to overfill the hole and trowel it sloping down. This will keep the water from pooling around the post.

 Step 5

Tie a string to the top of the terminal posts to give yourself a guide for the height and line of the line posts. Dig and set the line posts. Do it in the same manner as the terminal posts, measuring out for the panels.

 Step 6

Attach the rail brackets. The rail brackets are attached with screws but are different depending on the type of fence you are installing. You will need to check the manufacturer’s directions as to type of screws used. Attach the rail hangers in the same manner.

 Step 7

Slide the panels into the brackets and use screws to attach the panels to the hangers.

 Step 8

Glue tops to posts with vinyl adhesive by placing adhesive inside the top piece where it contacts the post. Hold in place for a few seconds while the adhesive sets.

 Step 9

Install the gate. Line up the gate with the bottom of the fence. Place pressure treated 2×4 inch boards inside each gate post. Level the wood to the top of the post. Hinge and latch holes are pre-drilled for you, so you just need to use hinge lag screws to install the hinge to the gate back rail and latch screws to mount the latch to the post. Check the gate for level and make sure it opens and closes properly. If not, make adjustments at the hinges.

•  Stakes and string
•  Post hole digger
•  Measuring tape
•  Level
•  Post level
•  Drill
•  Circular saw
•  Clamp
•  Gravel
•  Concrete
•  PVC adhesive
•  Fencing
•  Gate
•  Gate hardware (2 hinges, latch, hinge lag screws, latch screws)
•  2-by-4 inch pressure treated boards
•  Screwdriver
•  Pliers

Spring has Sprung and it is time to check on your lawn mower to make sure that it is ready for the task  ahead. As anyone who has had experience with gas engines knows, a fuel pump performs a vital function in keeping the engine running properly. Without an efficient fuel pump, your lawn mower engine will either run rough or will not run at all. The cause of fuel pump inefficiency will typically be a clog or damaged to the pump. In either case, you should be able to repair the pump in less than two hours. By following the steps below you will be able to unclog your fuel pump, repair it, or replace it and soon have the mower running as good as new.

Tools and Materials

•  Multimeter
•  Pliers or adjustable wrench
•  Screwdriver
•  Small brush

Step 1 – Locating the Pump

You will be able to quickly locate the fuel pump. It has two small rubber tubes connected to it. One connects to the gas tank, and the other to the engine’s carburetor. The pump will be mounted on the mower, near the gas tank. On some mowers the pump is powered by an electric current. If you find an electric wire connected to the pump, chances are, the pump is one of those that is powered by electricity. If it is, you should use a multimeter to verify that it is getting electrical power.

Step 2 – Testing the Pump

Before assuming that your mower’s fuel pump is defective, you should perform a quick test. To do this, disconnect the fuel line from where it is connected to the mower’s carburetor. Turn on the power supply and check to see if gas is spurting from the fuel line. If it is not, the problem is most likely in your fuel pump.

Step 3 – Inspecting the Pump

Remove the pump from the mower, using a wrench or pliers, and a screwdriver. Disassemble the pump by carefully removing screws that hold its parts together. Be careful not to damage seals or gaskets. Once you have the pump open and are able to see its various parts, look for damaged, broken, or bent parts. Next, look for foreign matter such as sand or gasoline resin deposits that could be gumming up operation of the pump. If you find resin deposits (a brownish color), spray surfaces with resin solvent and let it sit for 10 minutes to dissolve the resin. Then wipe the resin off with a clean cloth. Remove any particles of sand or debris using a small, soft brush or cloth.

Step 4 – Reassembling the Pump Parts

Put the pump parts back together, replacing any gaskets or seals that became detached. If gaskets or seals are damage, you’ll need to replace them before completing the assembly of the pump’s parts. Attach the pump to the mower and connect electrical wires and all fuel lines except the one between the pump and carburetor.

Step 5 – The Final Test

Follow the same procedures you used earlier to test the pump. Once you have turned on the pump’s power supply and can see fuel being pumped out of the detached fuel line, you’ll know your repair job was successful. Finally, replace the fuel line used for testing, and start your mower.

The weekend before Thanksgiving my wife and I went to the last Sprint Cup Race of the season at Homestead-Miami Speedway and that got me thinking about all of the activities that go on before, during and after the race.

I am constantly amazed at the amount of PATRIOTSIM that is shown by this sport. Not only by the fans, but by the sport itself. Fly-overs highlight every race. Four branches of the military now sponsor a team, and Military personnel are always welcome at the races.

Since September 11, 2001 singers belt out “God Bless America” before moving on to singing the National Anthem. Crew members stand on pit road waving small American Flags, and some teams proudly display the flag atop carts lining pit road.

Overseas, reservists tune into races free of charge and receive goodwill visits from drivers, officials and track owners.

I am proud to say that I am a Nascar fan, and proud of what they do for our WONDERFUL Military Personnel. Thank you Nascar. And thank you to all of our Military Families and Veterans for all you do and have done to keep the Country Safe and Free.