DIY Projects

Recently my wife and I decided to replace the outdated ceramic tile in our house. The first part of the project was to actually take up the tile. So with hammer and chisel we started chipping away. We knew that most of the tile had not been laid properly and for the most part it would just pop up. This took us about 2 days. The thin set that it was laid with was a different story though.

We tried scraping the thin set up with a hand scraper. That was a back breaking job that took forever with poor results. Next I found an attachment made by Milwaukee tools that attaches to a sawzall. They make a 1 ½” and a 3” scraper blade. This is mostly meant to take up paint and lightweight glues, however, I thought I would see how well it worked on thin set. Where the thin set and tile had been laid incorrectly, the scraper blade did a good job, just popping the thin set right up. But where the thin set had actually been set correctly the blade and saw just didn’t have enough strength to get the job done.

Finally, I went to our local home improvement store and rented a small demolition tool, with a scraper blade. Within 3 hours, I had chipped up all of the thin set.

So, the moral of the story is to always use the right tools, and don’t try to use your tools for things they are not meant to do.

Considering drywall covers the majority of your home’s walls and ceilings it is inevitable that at some point you will need to patch a hole. Of course you could call someone to patch it for you, however this is indeed the kind of project that a homeowner should be able to repair themselves. Some hardware stores or home improvement centers even stock a variety of drywall patches that can help speed the repair. It is a good idea to patch the holes promptly. If you wait until a day before guests arrive, you probably won’t have enough drying time for the coats of compound and touch-up paint.

Step 1

The first step in repairing an irregular hole is to square up the opening. Cut a square patch slightly larger than the damaged area, and trace its outline onto the wall. Penciled marks on the wall and patch ensure that you’ll put it in the same position when you fasten it later.

Step 2

Use your jab saw to cut along the penciled perimeter. Cut just to the outside of the line to create a bit of clearance for the edges of the patch so you won’t have to force it into place.

Step 3

Using your circular saw cut 2-inch-wide strips of 3/4-inch plywood about 3 inches longer than the hole’s biggest dimension. Slip a strip through the hole, center its width along the opening, and screw it into position.

Step 4

Screw the patch to the plywood strips. For large holes, put strips around the entire perimeter of the hole. Apply tape over the edges of the patch, then apply three feathered coats of joint compound to blend the repair to the wall’s surface. Sanding and painting complete the process.

What If… You don’t have wood strips to attach a patch?

You can take advantage of the adhesive property of drywall compound to bond a tapered plug into the hole. To do this, create an inward bevel of about 45 degrees along the hole’s perimeter when you square it. Then rasp down the edges of the patch to an approximate matching hole. When you’re satisfied with the fit, brush loose particles from the mating surfaces of both the hole and patch, and “butter” the edges with joint compound. Push the plug into the hole, and tape the edges. Subsequent coats of compound and sanding follow the usual procedures.

Use a self-stick patch:

For a fast patch, consider a self-adhesive sheet of perforated metal or plastic. Trim it to size, if necessary, strip off the backing, and press it into place. No taping is necessary, so you can immediately apply the first coat of joint compound. For a super-sturdy repair, top it with a self-adhesive sheet.

Applying a “hot” patch:

Some drywallers like this technique because it eliminates the installation of supports for the patch. Cut the patch about 3 inches larger than the opening it will cover and score lines on the back of the drywall 1-1/2 inches from each edge with a utility knife. Snap the board, but instead of cutting the face paper, carefully peel the gypsum core from the face paper. After cleaning any remaining gypsum from the paper, test-fit the patch. To install it, smear drywall compound around the hole’s perimeter and firmly press the face paper into it. Use a drywall knife to remove excess compound. Two or three feathered coats of compound complete the repair.

Checklist:

Time- Allow 30 minutes to insert the patch and apply the first coat of compound

Tools:

• Square
• utility knife
• circular saw to cut plywood strips
•  jab saw
• drill/driver
• joint compound
• mud pan
• drywall knife

Skills:

Cutting drywall, driving screws, applying tape and joint compound

Prep:

Put down a dropcloth to protect finished flooring

Materials:

• Plywood strips
• screws
• scrap drywall panel for patch material
• drywall tape

Step 1

Detach the button from the wall. If the mounting screws are not visible, you may need to snap off a cover to reach them. To remove a small, round button, pry it out with a screwdriver. Clean away any debris. Make sure wires are not broken. Tighten terminal screws.

 Step 2

If that does not solve the problem, detach the wires from the terminals. Hold each wire by its insulation and touch the bare wires together. If you get a tiny spark and the chime sounds, replace the button. If you get a spark and the chime does not sound, test the chime (Step 4). If there is no spark, check the transformer (Step 5).

 Step 3

If a chime does not sound or has a muffled sound, remove the cover and clean any dust or gunk. Make sure the wires are firmly connected to the terminal screws. If there is corrosion on the connections, detach and clean the wires and terminals with steel wool or fine sandpaper.

 Step 4

Set a multimeter to a low AC reading and touch the probes to “front” and “trans” terminals, then to “rear” and “trans.” If you get a reading that is close to the chime’s voltage rating, power is entering the chime. That indicates the chime mechanism is not functioning and the chime needs replacing.

 Step 5

If there is no power at the chime, test the transformer. Remove the thin wires. Touch the probes of the multimeter to both terminals. If the reading is more than 2 volts below the transformer’s output rating, replace the transformer.

 Step 6

Before you replace a transformer, make sure power is reaching it. If the transformer is attached to a receptacle box, insert the tester probes into the receptacle slots. If the transformer is attached to a junction box, carefully remove the cover and test the wires. Remember, these are 120-volt wires.

 Step 7

If the transformer doesn’t work, buy a new one with the same voltage rating. Shut off power to the circuit. Open the box and disconnect the transformer wires. Remove the nut that clamps the transformer to the box and pull out the transformer. Wire and clamp the new transformer.

 Step 8

If the transformer tests OK but no power reaches the chime or a button, the wiring is damaged. You may be able to attach new wire to the old and pull the new wire through. If you can’t rewire install a wireless chime.

Single-Chime System

In a single-button chime system, an electrical circuit runs from the transformer to the button, then to the chime and back to the transformer. When the button is depressed, the circuit is completed and the chime sounds.

Two-Button Chime System

In a two-button system, a separate wire runs from the chime to the transformer to create a complete circuit for both buttons.

Now that it is Spring Time and the weather has turned beautiful,  here is a Home Improvement Project that will enable you to get more fresh air into the house with very little work or expense. This Project takes little more than an hour.

Step 1 - Measure and Cut

Measure the opening and cut unit (including rails) to size using a hacksaw or reciprocating saw.

Step 2 –  Mount Screen Cartridge

Attach clips and snap cartridge into place.

Step 3 – Secure Track

Mount top and bottom rail and magnetic latch rail with screws provided.

Tools needed for installation:

•  Phillips screwdriver
•  Measuring tape
•  Needle nose pliers
•  Utility knife
•  Drill and drill bits
•  Reciprocating saw or hacksaw with miter box

Before deciding on your new exterior door measure the door opening as well as your current front door, and take those measurements to a hardware or home inprovement store and purchase a new door.

 Step 1:

Take the old door off its hinges. To do this, tap out the pins and carefully slip the door from the hinges.

Step 2:

Remove the old door molding using a pry bar or large claw hammer.

Step 3:

Remove the hinges from the door jamb by taking out the screws from each hinge. Then remove the door jamb from the door frame. You may need to use a circular saw to make a cut partway up the jamb so that it can be removed in two pieces.

Step 4:

Check to make sure the door fits by moving it into place. It’s helpful to have another person there to help you.

Step 5:

Caulk the bottom of the door opening and place the bottom of the door in place.

Step 6:

Raise the top of the door into position. If the door fits and is level, temporarily nail the frame into place. If the door frame is sitting as it should, place wood shims on the hinge side of the door between the wall and the frame. This should prevent the frame from shifting as you work.

Step 7:

Secure the door by driving large, finishing nails through the frame and the shims. If any areas appear to be out of alignment, place a shim behind them and secure them with the finishing nails.

Step 8:

Finish the exterior trim in a style that matches the exterior of your house.

Step 9:

Place insulation between the door jamb and the wall.

Step 10:

Make sure that the door hangs correctly, then test its operation by opening and closing it to test its operation. It should operate freely

Step 11:

Apply the appropriate interior trim.

Step 12:

Replace the door hardware either with new hardware or the hardware from the old door.

Tools & Materials Needed:

•  Screwdriver
•  Circular saw
•  Trim for interior and exterior of the house
•  Weatherproofing material
•  New front door
•  Level
•  Weatherproof caulk
•  Prying bar or large hammer
•  Shims
•  Hammer
•  Chisel
•  Large finishing nails
•  Tape measure

First of all determine if the entire jamb and door needs to be replaced or just the actual slab. If only the slab needs to be replaced determine the size of the door. Measuring just the slab of the door from side to side will give you an accurate measurement. Most interior doors are all the same height, eighty inches. Proceed as follows:

1. Remove old door:

Gently tap the hinge pins from the existing door with a screwdriver and a hammer. Slide the pins out of the hinges while someone supports the door. The old door should come off without too much trouble.

Carry the old door to your work area, and remove all of its hardware with a screwdriver or a power driver. Place the old door on top of the new door you are going to replace it with. Since the old door fit into the doorframe, you can use it as a template to cut the hinge mortises and bore the lock set on the new door.

Make sure that all four edges of the two doors are perfectly flush and then clamp them tightly together.

2. Transfer hardware locations:

Begin by transferring the hinge locations. Use a combination square and lay it on the edge. Instead of using a pencil, use a utility knife to mark the location of the new hinge. This will give you a much sharper line and it will give you a place to set the chisel.

After marking the sides if the hinge mortise, use the combination square again to scribe the line across the bottom.

3. Make hole for latch set:

You will need a hole saw to cut out the large hole for the latch cylinder. Use the old door as a template so you will know exactly where the hole needs to be made. The thickness of the door will help keep the drill vertical. Push firmly down as you saw and stop drilling as soon as you see the pilot drill comes through the other side of the door. It is helpful if you can have someone else watch the underside while you drill.

Flip the doors over and use the small pilot holes as a guide and continue drilling from the other side. This will create a clean edge on both sides of the hole, which is well worth the extra effort.

Note:

It is important to hold the door firmly in a vertical position while working on the hinges and the latch hole.

Use a spade bit to bore a latch hole. This hole must be perfectly vertical. It is helpful to use the combination square as a guide.

Screw the latch bolt into place temporarily and scribe around the outside of the plate. Then it is time to do some chiseling.

 4. Chisel mortises:

First cut the edge of the mortise. The knife mark made earlier provides a shallow V into which you can set the chisel blade. This will give you much better accuracy than a pencil line would. A chisel has two sides, the bevel and the flat side. Remove material by placing the bevel side down. As you get closer to the proper depth, turn the chisel over with the bevel side up. With the flat part of the chisel against the flat surface you are working on, you can pair a little bit at a time to create a flat surface for the hinge.

5. Hinge installation:

When the latch bolt mortise is complete, turn the door over to make the hinge mortises as described above.

With accurate marking and careful chiseling, the hinges should fit perfectly.

6. Door installation:

After attaching the doorknob set to the new door, it is time to hang the new door. With a few taps on the pins the door-hanging project is complete.