DIY Projects

Step 1

Detach the button from the wall. If the mounting screws are not visible, you may need to snap off a cover to reach them. To remove a small, round button, pry it out with a screwdriver. Clean away any debris. Make sure wires are not broken. Tighten terminal screws.

 Step 2

If that does not solve the problem, detach the wires from the terminals. Hold each wire by its insulation and touch the bare wires together. If you get a tiny spark and the chime sounds, replace the button. If you get a spark and the chime does not sound, test the chime (Step 4). If there is no spark, check the transformer (Step 5).

 Step 3

If a chime does not sound or has a muffled sound, remove the cover and clean any dust or gunk. Make sure the wires are firmly connected to the terminal screws. If there is corrosion on the connections, detach and clean the wires and terminals with steel wool or fine sandpaper.

 Step 4

Set a multimeter to a low AC reading and touch the probes to “front” and “trans” terminals, then to “rear” and “trans.” If you get a reading that is close to the chime’s voltage rating, power is entering the chime. That indicates the chime mechanism is not functioning and the chime needs replacing.

 Step 5

If there is no power at the chime, test the transformer. Remove the thin wires. Touch the probes of the multimeter to both terminals. If the reading is more than 2 volts below the transformer’s output rating, replace the transformer.

 Step 6

Before you replace a transformer, make sure power is reaching it. If the transformer is attached to a receptacle box, insert the tester probes into the receptacle slots. If the transformer is attached to a junction box, carefully remove the cover and test the wires. Remember, these are 120-volt wires.

 Step 7

If the transformer doesn’t work, buy a new one with the same voltage rating. Shut off power to the circuit. Open the box and disconnect the transformer wires. Remove the nut that clamps the transformer to the box and pull out the transformer. Wire and clamp the new transformer.

 Step 8

If the transformer tests OK but no power reaches the chime or a button, the wiring is damaged. You may be able to attach new wire to the old and pull the new wire through. If you can’t rewire install a wireless chime.

Single-Chime System

In a single-button chime system, an electrical circuit runs from the transformer to the button, then to the chime and back to the transformer. When the button is depressed, the circuit is completed and the chime sounds.

Two-Button Chime System

In a two-button system, a separate wire runs from the chime to the transformer to create a complete circuit for both buttons.

Now that it is Spring Time we are all getting the urge to get outdside and spruce up the yard or patio. Here is a simple yet attractive idea for a small Water Garden that can be placed on the patio.

Water Garden Materials:

•  Wood
•  Water sealant
•  Plastic liner
•  Water plants (Suggestions:  Japanese sweet flag, arrowhead, common duckweed, broadleaf, stonecrop, houseleek, deer fern, and blue-eyed grass.)
•  Potting soil
•  Pea gravel
•  Gazing ball or other ornament

Water Garden Tools:

•  Handsaw or circular saw
•  Hammer and nails
•  Drill
•  Wood screws, screwdriver

• Gather 1×8-inch cedar boards. (You also can use 1×10 or 1×12 boards to create a deeper pond.) Cut 30-inch lengths for the sides and 15-inch lengths for the ends.

• After assembling the outer frame, measure the interior dimension for the floor of the box. You can use the same 1×8 material for the base or use 3/4-inch exterior plywood. Use a handsaw or circular saw, or have the wood cut by your local home center. Make sure you get straight cuts to minimize gapping.

• Pre-drill holes every 6 inches along the edges of the sides and ends to attach to the bottom piece. Use wood screws to connect the boards, attaching one long side to the base first, then following with the two short sides and finishing with the remaining long side.

• If you want to create a divider—a separate planting bed within the box—cut another piece of wood. Before attaching the divider, try it in different locations to get a look you like. The divider will isolate the water feature from the planting space. We divided our container so one third is for plants and two thirds remain for the water garden.

• Use additional wood screws to fasten the end joints together, drawing the screws tight to minimize any gapping. Apply sealant to lengths of 1×2-inch strips of wood and fasten them to each corner; they will add strength to the box, provide additional sealing, and dress up your box.

• On the inside of the box, install a plastic liner or use a water sealant. If you plan to house fish, choose a sealant that’s safe for aquatic life–read the label carefully or check with an experienced pond fancier.

• Read the directions on the sealant can for the suggested number of coats, and then do one more. Coat both the water area and the garden section. On the garden side, drill two or three holes in the floor to provide drainage for plants.

• Create a composition with plants by selecting ones that vary in form, texture, color, and size. Chose a combination of edge, submerged, and floating plants. Select one plant that will add vertical interest. Line the perimeter with trailing plants that extend the garden outside the box.

• If you’re mixing plants with different growing requirements, place them in containers and set them in the box. Otherwise, fill the garden section with potting soil and choose plants with similar light and watering needs.

• Any floating plants should be placed on a brick so they sit 2 inches below the water surface. Finally, add ornamental elements such as a glass gazing ball or a wrought-iron piece.

• Group plants at the garden center before you buy them to make sure you like how they look together.

• To pot water plants, layer the bottom of the pot with plastic mulch. Mix in a spoonful of a slow-release fertilizer with topsoil and fill the pot to 1 inch below the rim. Dig a hole for the root ball, place it in the soil, and fan out the roots. Cover with about 1 inch of soil. Top-dress with pea gravel.

• Most waterlilies need 3–8 feet of space for spread; however, miniature waterlilies are now available that require only 1-1/2 feet.

• Submerged plants grow beneath the pond surface; they do not need soil to thrive. They are called oxygenators because they add oxygen to the water—a must if you want fish in your water garden.

• Group plants at the garden center before you buy them to make sure you like how they look together.

• To pot water plants, layer the bottom of the pot with plastic mulch. Mix in a spoonful of a slow-release fertilizer with topsoil and fill the pot to 1 inch below the rim. Dig a hole for the root ball, place it in the soil, and fan out the roots. Cover with about 1 inch of soil. Top-dress with pea gravel.

• Most waterlilies need 3–8 feet of space for spread; however, miniature waterlilies are now available that require only 1-1/2 feet.

• Submerged plants grow beneath the pond surface; they do not need soil to thrive. They are called oxygenators because they add oxygen to the water—a must if you want fish in your water garden.

Now that it is Spring Time and the weather has turned beautiful,  here is a Home Improvement Project that will enable you to get more fresh air into the house with very little work or expense. This Project takes little more than an hour.

Step 1 - Measure and Cut

Measure the opening and cut unit (including rails) to size using a hacksaw or reciprocating saw.

Step 2 –  Mount Screen Cartridge

Attach clips and snap cartridge into place.

Step 3 – Secure Track

Mount top and bottom rail and magnetic latch rail with screws provided.

Tools needed for installation:

•  Phillips screwdriver
•  Measuring tape
•  Needle nose pliers
•  Utility knife
•  Drill and drill bits
•  Reciprocating saw or hacksaw with miter box

Before deciding on your new exterior door measure the door opening as well as your current front door, and take those measurements to a hardware or home inprovement store and purchase a new door.

 Step 1:

Take the old door off its hinges. To do this, tap out the pins and carefully slip the door from the hinges.

Step 2:

Remove the old door molding using a pry bar or large claw hammer.

Step 3:

Remove the hinges from the door jamb by taking out the screws from each hinge. Then remove the door jamb from the door frame. You may need to use a circular saw to make a cut partway up the jamb so that it can be removed in two pieces.

Step 4:

Check to make sure the door fits by moving it into place. It’s helpful to have another person there to help you.

Step 5:

Caulk the bottom of the door opening and place the bottom of the door in place.

Step 6:

Raise the top of the door into position. If the door fits and is level, temporarily nail the frame into place. If the door frame is sitting as it should, place wood shims on the hinge side of the door between the wall and the frame. This should prevent the frame from shifting as you work.

Step 7:

Secure the door by driving large, finishing nails through the frame and the shims. If any areas appear to be out of alignment, place a shim behind them and secure them with the finishing nails.

Step 8:

Finish the exterior trim in a style that matches the exterior of your house.

Step 9:

Place insulation between the door jamb and the wall.

Step 10:

Make sure that the door hangs correctly, then test its operation by opening and closing it to test its operation. It should operate freely

Step 11:

Apply the appropriate interior trim.

Step 12:

Replace the door hardware either with new hardware or the hardware from the old door.

Tools & Materials Needed:

•  Screwdriver
•  Circular saw
•  Trim for interior and exterior of the house
•  Weatherproofing material
•  New front door
•  Level
•  Weatherproof caulk
•  Prying bar or large hammer
•  Shims
•  Hammer
•  Chisel
•  Large finishing nails
•  Tape measure

 Step 1

Before you begin, check the local building code office and see if you need a permit to install fencing. Check with the utility companies to see if there are any underground wire or gas lines buried in your yard. Check your survey to make sure you are planning your fence inside your property lines and are not closing off any easements or right of ways.

 Step 2

Measure and stake off the fence area. Place your corner stakes a few inches beyond where you want the post. Then the string will intersect at the exact spot of the post. The string will give you a straight line to set your line posts. The line posts will go in at certain intervals depending on the type of fence you are installing. Most vinyl fencing is installed with panels. If this is the case, the stakes for your line posts will be set at the same measurement as the length of the panel. Ends and corners are called terminal posts. The posts between them are known as line posts. Make sure you measure and set for the gate or gates.

 Step 3

Dig post holes. Dig the terminal posts first. The hole should be 10 inches in diameter and a third of the post’s length, plus 4 inches deep. Fill the 4 inches in with gravel. Mark your posts with a crayon to the height where you want it to go in the ground. This is normally a third of the post’s length, but it is best to measure with the panel and make sure to get it exact.

 Step 4

Mix concrete and set the posts. Pour concrete into the hole, almost filling it. Put the post in the concrete. Vinyl posts are hollow and as you push the post down the hollow center fills with concrete. Push down until your crayon mark is at ground level. Level the post both at the top with a level and down the side with a post level. You will need to do this right away before the cement starts to set. Then add some concrete to overfill the hole and trowel it sloping down. This will keep the water from pooling around the post.

 Step 5

Tie a string to the top of the terminal posts to give yourself a guide for the height and line of the line posts. Dig and set the line posts. Do it in the same manner as the terminal posts, measuring out for the panels.

 Step 6

Attach the rail brackets. The rail brackets are attached with screws but are different depending on the type of fence you are installing. You will need to check the manufacturer’s directions as to type of screws used. Attach the rail hangers in the same manner.

 Step 7

Slide the panels into the brackets and use screws to attach the panels to the hangers.

 Step 8

Glue tops to posts with vinyl adhesive by placing adhesive inside the top piece where it contacts the post. Hold in place for a few seconds while the adhesive sets.

 Step 9

Install the gate. Line up the gate with the bottom of the fence. Place pressure treated 2×4 inch boards inside each gate post. Level the wood to the top of the post. Hinge and latch holes are pre-drilled for you, so you just need to use hinge lag screws to install the hinge to the gate back rail and latch screws to mount the latch to the post. Check the gate for level and make sure it opens and closes properly. If not, make adjustments at the hinges.

•  Stakes and string
•  Post hole digger
•  Measuring tape
•  Level
•  Post level
•  Drill
•  Circular saw
•  Clamp
•  Gravel
•  Concrete
•  PVC adhesive
•  Fencing
•  Gate
•  Gate hardware (2 hinges, latch, hinge lag screws, latch screws)
•  2-by-4 inch pressure treated boards
•  Screwdriver
•  Pliers

Preparation:

• Several days before painting or installation, bring the panels inside to acclimate them to your house. Stack them horizontally, placing thin blocks of wood between the panels so air can circulate. This allows any excess moisture to escape and helps reduce expansion or contraction.

•  Remove any base moldings in the room where you will be applying the panels; you’ll add new ones to complete the project.
•  If your panels are unfinished, painting or staining them before installation is better. .
•  Note: Use safety equipment for the cutting, sanding, and painting necessary to complete the project.

What You Need:

•  Beaded-board panels
•  Base molding
•  Cap molding
•  Electrical outlet box extenders
•  Construction adhesive
•  Finishing nails and brads
•  Paintable caulk and putty
•  Paint
•  Tape measure
•  Carpenter’s level or water level
•  Chalk line
•  Safety goggles
•  Handsaw or circular saw
•  Jigsaw or keyhole saw
•  Hammer and nail set or air-driven nail gun
•  Miter box
•  Caulk gun
•  Paintbrush or roller

 Step 1

Because most floors are not level, you’ll want to create a level line on the wall to mark the top of your panel installation. Base molding installed later will disguise any variance at the bottom edges. Choose a starting point on your wall, and measure the desired height of the wainscoting. (Remember that the cap molding applied along the top edge of the beaded-board panels will add slightly to the finished height.) From that point, use a level to draw a horizontal line and extend it around the room. Use a chalk line to connect the points.

Step 2

Using a handsaw or circular saw, cut the panels to the desired height. Measure the positions of any outlets or other electrical boxes on the wall, then sketch the dimensions onto the backs of the corresponding panels with a pencil. Use a jigsaw or keyhole saw to cut the holes. Install a box extender at each electrical point to contain wires.

Step 3

Squeeze construction adhesive in a zigzag pattern onto the wall side of a panel and press the panel into place. Nail along the edges as indicated by the manufacturer. If you’re hammering the nails by hand, use a nail set to indent each nail so you can cover it with putty. Repeat with the remaining panels. As you apply each panel, make sure you space and overlap them according to manufacturer recommendations. This allows the panels to expand and contract in response to seasonal humidity and temperature changes.

Step 4

Use a miter box to cut angled joints on the cap molding where walls meet. Fasten the cap molding with brads at the tops of the panels. Install base molding with brads.

Step 5

Fill visible nail holes with putty, and caulk gaps as necessary. Touch up with paint.

1. When choosing the right spot for your solar tube, keep these points in mind:

•  Choose a spot between ceiling joists and roof rafters because you want to avoid cutting into your homes structural elements
•  Although elbow joints are available, for easier installation and higher light output, choose a location that will allow a straight run from the ceiling to the roof
•  Make sure there are no electrical wires or other obstructions where you plan to install the skylight

2. Once you’ve chosen the location for your solar tube, it’s time to cut the holes in the ceiling and the roof.

•  From inside your room, push a nail through the ceiling at the center of where the diffuser will be
•  From the attic, use a plumb line to find the spot directly above the nail that you pushed through the ceiling and drill a hole through the spot in the roof
•  From inside your room, using a template or the ceiling ring, scribe a circle in the ceiling and cut out that portion using a    drywall saw
•  Install the ceiling ring
•  From your roof, use a template or the flashing to scribe a circle centered on the hole you drilled earlier
•  From your roof, use a reciprocating saw to cut out the section of the roof that you marked

3. Now that the holes are cut, Install the flashing.

•  Remove or cut any roofing nails from underneath the shingles around the top half of the hole
•  Prepare the flashing for installation by caulking the underside of the flashing
•  Insert the flashing underneath the shingles and tar paper at the slits you cut earlier, pushing it up until the shingles come in contact with the raised portion of the flashing
•  Secure the flashing with the screws provided in the installation kit

4. Once the flashing is installed, you are ready to build and install the tube.

•  Measure the distance from the top of the flashing to the ceiling to determine how much tubing you will need
•  Assemble the length of tubing needed
•  Remove the protective film from inside the tubing
•  Insert the pipe through the flashing until it is even with the ceiling ring
•  Secure the tube to the ceiling ring and flashing with the screws provided in the installation kit
•  Remove any excess tubing sticking out of the flashing by cutting it off using tin snips

5. Attach the dome to the flashing using the screws provided in the installation kit.

6. Attach the diffuser and trim ring to the ceiling ring.

Enjoy Your Solar Tube!

These are the general steps for installing a Solar Tube. You now have a good idea of what’s involved in this project. Make sure to always read the Manufacturer’s Instructions, and ALWAYS follow proper safety measures.

Materials needed:

• • 14-inch skylight assembly
• • Drill with 1/8 inch bit
• • Coat hanger
• • Marker
• • Reciprocating saw
• • Screwdriver
• • Tarp
• • Drywall saw
• • Aluminum tape

A built-in ironing board will save space by concealing it behind a cupboard door. When needed, simply open the door and fold the ironing board out. It is a highly convenient setup that will add a bit of traditional charm to your home.

Tools and Materials:

•  Drywall saw
•  Tape measure
•  Pencil
•  Hammer
•  Cordless drill
•  2×4 lumber
•  Pre-constructed built-in ironing board
•  Wire cutter/stripper
•  Wire nuts
•  Screwdriver
•  Stud finder
•  Straightedge
•  Circular saw

Step 1 – Pick the Location for the Installation:

Pick an area in your laundry room to install the built-in ironing board. Because there is a power outlet that will be wired into the back of the board, choose a spot that is directly above an existing outlet. You’ll tap into that line and splice a connection.

Step 2 – Locate the Studs on Either Side:

Run a stud finder along the wall on either side of the outlet to determine where the studs are. Make sure you locate both sides of either stud. Mark their location on the wall and trace a line up with a straightedge. These will be the outer vertical borders of the ironing board.

Step 3 – Cut Out Test Hole:

Turn off the circuit that powers the outlet directly below where you’ll place the ironing board. Next, cut out a hole just big enough to reach your hand inside the wall. Check to make sure there are no pipes or wires that will get in the way when you make the full cut.

Step 4 – Cut Out Hole for Ironing Board:

Measure the dimensions of the ironing board box. Trace lines equal to this size on the wall between the studs at a height that is suitable for an ironing board. With the drywall saw, cut out the square hole in the wall.

Step 5 – Brace the Hole Above and Below:

Cut 2 pieces of 2×4 to a length to fit them between the studs. They will be used to horizontally brace the board box. Drill a hole wide enough for the wiring in the bottom brace. Tap them into place with a hammer so that they are flush against the top and bottom edges. Secure the braces with screws set at an angle but sunk into the wood.

Step 6 – Install the Ironing Board Box:

Slide the ironing board box into the hole and secure it to the studs on either side with wood screws. Run the wire up into the box and connect the power supply to the circuit. Fit the door onto the ironing board box, turn on the circuit and make sure it has power.

If there is a problem, turn the circuit back off and check your wiring connections. Make sure that all the right wires are pigtailed together correctly and that wire nuts are properly used. Turn the circuit back on after you have made any adjustments and check the power again. With your built-in ironing board in place, you no longer need to rely upon a freestanding, fold-up ironing board. Simply fold it back up into the wall, close the door and enjoy the extra space it affords you.

Installation steps:

Before installing wood flooring, stack it indoors for a few days to allow the wood time to adjust to your home’s humidity level. Plan to install the flooring perpendicular to the floor joists.

Mark the positions of the floor joists along a wall for reference, and cover the subfloor with a layer of 15-pound asphalt felt to provide some moisture protection and minimize squeaks. Mark the centerline of the room using a measuring tape and chalk line.

If the room is seriously out of square, position the tongue of the first row parallel to the centerline and rip (cut lengthwise) the groove side at an angle parallel to the wall.

To rip flooring, you will need a power saw that has a fence, such as a job saw (portable table saw). For crosscuts, you can use a power circular saw with a carbide-tipped 40-tooth blade or, better yet, a power miter (“chop”) saw with the same type of blade.

During installation, you’ll find it’s helpful to lay out several rows of boards, staggering them so no end joint is closer than 6 inches to an end joint in the next row. As you install the strips, cut pieces (at least 8 inches long) to fit at the end of each row; allow for a 1/2-inch gap at the wall.

When blind-nailing with a hammer and finishing nails, don’t try to drive the nails flush or the indentations will show. Instead, leave each nailhead projecting up about 1/8 inch and then place a nail set sideways over it along the upper edge of the tongue and drive the nail home by tapping the nail set with a hammer. Finally, use the tip of the nail set to recess the nail’s head flush with the wood.

1 . Cover the subfloor with a layer of 15-pound asphalt felt, overlapping seams by about 3 inches. Tack the felt down to the subfloor with a staple gun.

Measure the room’s width at two or more points to establish an accurate centerline, and snap a chalk line parallel to your starting wall. Working from the joist marks along the walls, snap chalk lines to mark the locations of the support members.

2.  To indicate the edge of the first row of flooring, snap another chalk line about 1/2 inch from the starting wall exactly parallel to the centerline. This 1/2-inch gap between the flooring and the wall will allow for expansion; it will be covered by a base shoe or baseboard molding.

3.  Choose the longest boards or widest planks for the first row. Near the wall, where the nailheads will be covered by a base shoe or baseboard molding, drill pilot holes for 1 1/2-inch finishing nails and then face-nail the first row through the plywood subflooring to the floor joists or sleepers. Use a nailset to recess the nails below the surface.

4.  Blind-nail this and the next two rows by hand. Drill pilot holes at a 45-to-50-degree angle through the tongues, centered on each joist or sleeper, at the ends and every 10 inches along the lengths. Fasten with 1 1/2-inch finishing nails. Use a nail set to finish driving each nail.

5.  When installing the second row and every row thereafter, move a short piece of flooring along the edge and give it a sharp rap with a mallet or hammer to tighten the new row against the previous row before nailing.

Remember that end joints in two adjacent rows should not be closer than 6 inches; end joints should also not line up over a joint in the subfloor. If you’re installing a wide-plank floor, some manufacturers recommend leaving a crack the width of a putty-knife blade between planks for expansion.

6.  If you’re installing flooring over a large area, use a wood floor nailer once you’ve installed the first three rows. Slip it onto the board’s tongue and, using a heavy rubber mallet, strike the plunger to drive 2-inch nails or staples through the tongue into each joist and into the subfloor midway between joists. Be extremely careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the flooring.

7.  When you reach the final row, use a block and a pry bar to wedge the last boards tightly into position. Drill holes and face-nail boards where a base shoe or baseboard molding will cover, using the reference marks along the wall to locate the joists. Set the nailheads below the surface using a hammer and nail set.

8.  If your new floor will cause a change of level to a hallway or adjoining room, install a reducer strip for a smooth transition. This strip, milled with a rounded or beveled top, fits onto the tongue of an adjacent board or the ends of perpendicular boards.

It can also be butted against the edges or ends of grooves. Face-nail the reducer strip at the edge of the floor, set the nailheads below the surface, and fill with wood putty. Last, install a base shoe or baseboard molding.

Water heaters are supposed to have periodic maintenance but all too often they are just a forgotten appliance that works, and works for you until one day it’s had enough, and it quits due to rust and corrosion.

The quickest and easiest way to replace a water heater is to have it done by a plumbing professional, but if you can’t afford it or really want to do this yourself, then read on. You need to make sure you’re following plumbing codes so calling your local plumbing inspector to find out what municipal permitting requirements and specific criteria they may have is a good idea. Replacing a water heater is not extremely hard. However, it will probably take the better part of a day to complete.

Selecting Your New Water Heater:

When selecting your new water heater it’s easiest to keep the same fuel type, whether gas or electric. This article is based on you using the same fuel type when replacing yours. However you cam change the size a bit. For example, let’s say you had a 40 gallon and want to go to a 50 gallon. That should not be a problem as long as you have clearance between the heater and the wall.

Prepare for the Installation:

Before you start, check these next points to make sure you’re ready to go when the new water heater arrives.

Check the Plumbing:

Measure the center-to-center dimension between the hot and cold water pipes on the top of the water heater and try to ensure the new heater has the same dimensions. That will make the plumbing job a bit easier. Take a look at the plumbing connecting to the old water heater. Make sure you have a gas union in the gas line if you have a gas water heater, and make sure there is a water shutoff for the cold water inlet pipe and a union connector for the hot water outlet pipe. If you don’t have these you’re job is a bit harder as you’ll have to cut the pipes to remove the old heater, then install the cold water shut off valve, and / or gas union or hot water pipe union. But most plumbers did the right job in the beginning so hopefully everything is in place.

Setting Up:

Getting the water heater off the truck and into place is usually a two person job. I also recommend using an appliance dolly if possible. If you don’t have one, you can rent one for around $20/day it makes moving  the new heater around  a lot easier. They are bulky and heavy. Once you have the new heater brought to the location of the old heater you’re ready to go.

Turn Off Utilities to Water Heater:

Before you do anything, you have to turn off the utilities to the existing water heater.

• Turn off the water at the home’s main water shutoff valve or the shutoff valve at the cold water supply line running to the existing water heater.

• If you have an electric water heater, shut off the electricity to the water heater by removing the fuse or turning off the circuit breaker on the water heater’s circuit.

• If you have a gas water heater, turn off the gas at the gas supply pipe at the tank or at the main gas shutoff valve to the home. To make sure the gas is off check the pilot light, it should be out.

Drain the Hot Water Tank:

Once the water is turned off to the heater you need to drain the tank.

•  Open the nearest hot water faucet.
•  Attach a hose to the drain valve on the water heater.
•  Place other end of hose over a floor drain.
•  Open the drain valve slowly so that sediment does not clog the drain valve.

Disconnect Utility Lines:

Disconnect the hot water, cold water, and depending on the type of water heater, the gas line or electrical service to the water heater.

•  If you have a gas heater, making sure the gas is off disconnect the gas line to the water heater.
•  If you have an electric heater, disconnect the electrical service to the water heater.
•  To remove the plumbing you may need a pipe wrench, slip joint pliers, or channel locks.
•  Disconnect the cold water line by disconnecting it at the shut off valve to the heater.
•  Disconnect the hot water discharge line by disconnecting the hot water line at the union to the heater.
•  Disconnect the flue from the heater.
•  Once the flue, water lines and gas or electric service have been disconnected you are ready to remove the old heater.

Remove and Replace the Water Heater:

Once the old water heater is fully drained and disconnected, you may remove the old unit.

•  Have an assistant help to load the old water heater onto the appliance dolly and remove the old water heater.
•  Clean up the floor where the old heater was located.
•  Move the new water heater into position lining up the existing plumbing with the water heater’s plumbing locations.
•  Using a torpedo level or full level, level the new water heater by shimming under the legs until the unit is straight up and down.

Install New Water Heater Fittings:

Next, install the various fittings that come with the water heater.

•  Install the temperature and pressure relief valve and discharge drain pipe.
•  Use Teflon tape on copper and pipe dope or joint compound on galvanized fittings.
•  Install any other fittings as per manufacturer’s directions.

Connect Hot and Cold Water Lines:

Next, install the plumbing lines to the water heater.

• If the new water heater inlet and outlet openings do not line up exactly with the old plumbing, then use flexible copper supply lines.
• Add a shut off valve to the cold water supply if one dose not already exist.
• Connect the pipes using dielectric unions to prevent an electro-galvanic action called electrolysis which will damage your pipe connections and water heater.
• Sweat the copper joints or use Teflon tape on threaded copper, and use pipe dope or joint compound on galvanized fittings.

Connect Gas Line or Electric (as applicable):

Once the water lines are installed you’re ready to install the fuel source.

• Connect the gas line to the gas burner control valve.
• Use a flexible gas line if needed.
• Check for leaks by turning on the gas supply valve and brushing on a soapy water solution onto the gas union and all gas joints, like that at the burner control valve. If you see any bubbles, the connection is leaking and needs to be tightened. If you still cannot get a good seal without bubbles, call the gas company or a plumber for assistance.
• For electric water heaters, connect the power lines and ground wire to the water heater junction box.
• Attach Flue

If the water heater is a gas model you next need to attach the exhaust flue:

• Attach the draft diverter over the water heater flue. There should be specific parts and instructions with the new water heater. Install the flue as per manufacturer instructions and local codes.

Once all the connections are made, it’s time to fill the water heater up with cold water and turn the unit on.

• Turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater and turn on the main water supply valve at the water meter if that was also turned off.
• Close the faucet near the water heater that was opened when you drained the water heater.
• Fill the water heater tank. One way to check when it is full is to turn a hot water faucet on in a remote bathroom or the kitchen and when water comes out of that faucet, the tank is filled. The water will still be cold.
• Once the tank is filled turn power back on at the power panel by reinstalling the fuse or resetting the circuit breaker (if an electric model); If a gas model, make sure the main gas valve is opened and light the pilot.
• Set the thermostat to a temperature between 110 and 130 degrees.