DIY Projects

Recently my wife and I decided to replace the outdated ceramic tile in our house. The first part of the project was to actually take up the tile. So with hammer and chisel we started chipping away. We knew that most of the tile had not been laid properly and for the most part it would just pop up. This took us about 2 days. The thin set that it was laid with was a different story though.

We tried scraping the thin set up with a hand scraper. That was a back breaking job that took forever with poor results. Next I found an attachment made by Milwaukee tools that attaches to a sawzall. They make a 1 ½” and a 3” scraper blade. This is mostly meant to take up paint and lightweight glues, however, I thought I would see how well it worked on thin set. Where the thin set and tile had been laid incorrectly, the scraper blade did a good job, just popping the thin set right up. But where the thin set had actually been set correctly the blade and saw just didn’t have enough strength to get the job done.

Finally, I went to our local home improvement store and rented a small demolition tool, with a scraper blade. Within 3 hours, I had chipped up all of the thin set.

So, the moral of the story is to always use the right tools, and don’t try to use your tools for things they are not meant to do.

With the summer storm season approaching, now would be a good time to replace any damaged roof shingles you have.

If you have any leftover shingles from the original job, use those. If not go to your local hardware or home improvement store and purchase replacement shingles that match yours.

Lift up the tabs of the shingles above the damaged shingle or shingles. Use a flat pry bar to pry out the nails. Pull out the damaged shingles and clear away any debris.

If the felt underlayment is damaged, cut a piece that is at least 6 inches larger than the damaged area in both directions and slip it into place before replacing the shingle. Drive a couple of staples to hold it in place.

Starting at the bottom and working up, install the replacement shingles. You will have to lift up shingle tabs to drive some of the nails.

Before installing the topmost piece, apply a bead of roofing cement to its underside, near the top. Slip the shingle into place, lift up the tabs above, and drive nails.

Tools needed for this project:

• Utility knife
• Tape measure
• Flat pry bar
• Stapler
• Hammer or roofing hatchet
• Trowel
• Caulk gun

How many times have you had to miss part of your favorite show to let your dog outside?  This problem can be easily fixed by installing a doggie door.

It is an intermediate do-it-yourself project, and it will give your dog freedom and unlimited access to the outside.

Pet doors come in many sizes, so it is important to measure the largest pet that will use the door. Measure your dog from the top part of its shoulders to the lowest part on the chest and add 2 inches. Also make sure that it is at least 2 inches wider than your dog.

 **Make sure your dog is full grown and allow for any weight gain.**

Tape a template to the door, outlining the doggie door, making sure it fits where you want it and there are no problems.

Use a 1/2-inch drill bit and work 4 holes into each corner of the drawn outline. Once this is done, change the drill bit to a 3/8-inch piece and drill the holes for the outer surround.

Make sure that the larger holes in the corners stay inside the outline.

Using the jigsaw, insert the blade into 1 of the 4 1/2-inch holes and begin cutting along the outline. Once finished, the inner section can be removed

Insert the flap-less outer surround into the hole from the exterior side of the door. This should lie flush and can be modified using the small break off levels on the inner part of the surround. Use the pliers to break of these levels until the entire outer surround sits perfectly against the door.

Screw the outer surround into place using the 3/8-inch holes as a guide.

Caulk the inside edges of the outer surround to make it air tight once the flap is fitted.

The flap can now be screwed into place on the interior side of the door on the section provided. Be careful not to over-tighten as this can cause splits in plastic models.

The pet door is ready to use. Encourage pets to use the pet door by coaxing them with gentle nudges and an occasional treat!

It was suggested to us to hold the flap up for a while so your dog can get used to going through the opening first. Put a treat on one side and when the dog goes through to get it show them that there is another one on the other side. Do this several times and they quickly learn to go through the door.

 Step 1: Turn off the Power:

• Always remember to flip off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse when working with electricity.

Step 2: Determine Center:

• If there is no central light fixture, determine where the center of the room is and if need be move a little off center just far enough between the joists to fasten the side of the fan’s new junction box directly to the joist.

Step 3: Install Junction Box:

• Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. If it’s next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist. Attach the box to the joist with the two 1 1/2-inch No. 10 hex-head screws provided. Drive in the screws with a drill/driver equipped with a 5/16-inch nut-driver tip.
• Installation between joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2×4 header nailed between the joists. If there isn’t a 2×4 you can insert one through the junction box’s hole, nailing it to each joist. If you can’t insert one, you may have to make a bigger hole and patch it later.

Step 4: Assemble the Fan:

• Be sure to follow the specific instructions with the unit that you buy. Regardless of the manufacturer’s instructions, if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver’s length away from the ceiling, it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan.

Step 5: Install Hanger Pipe:

• The hanger pipe is usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. The wires are then drawn up in the center. A set-screw is tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in place after it is threaded down.

Step 6: Attach the Fan Blades:

• To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be stable.
• Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need to be tightened, but do not over tighten. Do not damage the threads or the finish on the blades. On some fans you’ll see the flanges, or prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.

Mounting the Fan to the Box

Step 1: Install Hanger Bracket:

• Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. Using lock washers will help prevent fan vibration from loosening the screws over time.

Step 2: Wire the Unit:

• Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.

Step 3: Ground the Fan:

• The fan should be electrically grounded to both the metal box and the fan. The grounding wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will make your work easier. Use a wirenut to ground the wires from the box; the fan and the power supply together.

Tip: If the fan wobbles when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced. To correct this, try interchanging two adjacent blades. If that doesn’t work, take all the blades off and weigh each one on a food or postal scale. If any is underweight, tape a soft object such as a pencil eraser or modeling clay to the top center of the blade, making its weight the same as the others. Fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available. Reinstall the blades and the fan should run smoothly.

Start by mounting the dispenser. Most are designed to fit in the extra hole in a sink top, but if this hole is already in use you’ll have to drill another in the sink or countertop. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the location and size of the hole. You should only drill only into a stainless-steel or porcelain cast-iron sink; if you have an all-porcelain sink, you will need to drill the hole for the dispenser through the countertop.

• Tap into the existing cold water supply line using a saddle valve, To install a saddle valve, first turn off the water supply and then open the faucet to drain the line. Following the manufacturer’s directions, drill a small hole in the supply line. Turn the handle on the valve to expose the lance that’s designed to puncture the pipe, and position the valve over the pipe so that the lance fits in the hole. Attach the back plate of the valve and tighten the nuts to lock it in place, and then screw in the lance.

• Position the cartridge filtration unit between the cold water line and the dispenser. Be sure you leave enough clearance between the system and the cabinet bottom to allow for cartridge replacement. Secure the device to the cabinet back or wall with the hardware provided.

• To hook up the device, cut enough plastic tubing to reach between the saddle valve and the system. Make it short enough not to kink, but long enough to allow for installing a new compression fitting if needed. Press the tubing into the compression fitting and thread it onto the saddle valve; tighten with your channellock pliers. 

• Insert the opposite end of the tubing into another compression fitting and thread it onto the inlet port of the filtration unit. Tighten the nut with your hand, and then make another turn or turn and a half with your channellock pliers. Finally, cut a piece of tubing to run from the outlet port of the system to the water dispenser. Insert compression fittings on both ends and thread the nuts onto the dispenser and the system. Turn on the water and open the water dispenser. Let the water run for about five minutes to flush out any carbon particles or air pockets.

I recently spotted this project on the internet to make shelves to store CD’s, photos, games or whatever else you would like to organize. I thought it was quite a unique project, but I would like to take this project one step further.

Purchase closet organizers that are commonly used for shoes. You can purchase several of the organizers to make the shelves whatever size you want. You can make multiple sets. Since there are already predrilled holes, you can make the shelves whatever height you would like. Or if need be, drill some new holes for the shelves. But here is where I would like to make a change. Why not use laminate to finish them to enhance your decorating style. If you would like, choose a bold and bright color. Or choose a wood finish to match other furniture in the room. The point is, they don’t have to stay white.

Laminate is easy to install, with some contact cement and a router this would be a simple project. There are endless possibilities, since there are many, many styles of laminate to be used.

If your cabinet installation is close to being complete, it is probably time to think about what style of door hardware you want.

Do you like handles?  How about knobs? What style?  How about the finish?  There are many things for you to consider. The price range alone is enough to make your head spin.

There is one thing that makes this task easier. When you get ready to install, look for an alignment template at your local hardware store. They are inexpensive and save a lot of time. Read the instructions to make sure that the handles you have selected fit with the template. Whether you’re mounting knobs or pulls, these templates make alignment fast, easy and most important precise! Then just mark the location with a pencil, grab your drill and a sharp drill bit and have at it. This is one project that you can have done in just a few minutes. One that makes your cabinets complete.

Do you have leftover laminate from building your countertops?

Would you like a wall sconce that matches your kitchen or bathroom decor?

Here’s how to make it: Cut a sheet of laminate to fit a plywood base. Use contact cement to attach to the plywood. Finish off the outside edges by making a frame. Use a sharp wood drill bit to drill a hole at the center (drill through an X of masking tape to prevent chipping). Insert a candlestick sconce, and hard-wire.

This can also be made with left over ceramic tile.

Recently a friend of mine purchased a house at a foreclosure auction. Obviously, the price was right or he would not have bought it, to resell. Of course it needed some work done on it.

Replacing carpet, tiling the kitchen and bathrooms, and paint, you know, the stuff that you do to make a place look updated and clean.

Our next step was to replace the kitchen cabinets and build new laminate countertops. Installing new appliances and the transformation was complete. He sold the house in less than a week, at a decent profit. Now he is looking for another one.

Considering drywall covers the majority of your home’s walls and ceilings it is inevitable that at some point you will need to patch a hole. Of course you could call someone to patch it for you, however this is indeed the kind of project that a homeowner should be able to repair themselves. Some hardware stores or home improvement centers even stock a variety of drywall patches that can help speed the repair. It is a good idea to patch the holes promptly. If you wait until a day before guests arrive, you probably won’t have enough drying time for the coats of compound and touch-up paint.

Step 1

The first step in repairing an irregular hole is to square up the opening. Cut a square patch slightly larger than the damaged area, and trace its outline onto the wall. Penciled marks on the wall and patch ensure that you’ll put it in the same position when you fasten it later.

Step 2

Use your jab saw to cut along the penciled perimeter. Cut just to the outside of the line to create a bit of clearance for the edges of the patch so you won’t have to force it into place.

Step 3

Using your circular saw cut 2-inch-wide strips of 3/4-inch plywood about 3 inches longer than the hole’s biggest dimension. Slip a strip through the hole, center its width along the opening, and screw it into position.

Step 4

Screw the patch to the plywood strips. For large holes, put strips around the entire perimeter of the hole. Apply tape over the edges of the patch, then apply three feathered coats of joint compound to blend the repair to the wall’s surface. Sanding and painting complete the process.

What If… You don’t have wood strips to attach a patch?

You can take advantage of the adhesive property of drywall compound to bond a tapered plug into the hole. To do this, create an inward bevel of about 45 degrees along the hole’s perimeter when you square it. Then rasp down the edges of the patch to an approximate matching hole. When you’re satisfied with the fit, brush loose particles from the mating surfaces of both the hole and patch, and “butter” the edges with joint compound. Push the plug into the hole, and tape the edges. Subsequent coats of compound and sanding follow the usual procedures.

Use a self-stick patch:

For a fast patch, consider a self-adhesive sheet of perforated metal or plastic. Trim it to size, if necessary, strip off the backing, and press it into place. No taping is necessary, so you can immediately apply the first coat of joint compound. For a super-sturdy repair, top it with a self-adhesive sheet.

Applying a “hot” patch:

Some drywallers like this technique because it eliminates the installation of supports for the patch. Cut the patch about 3 inches larger than the opening it will cover and score lines on the back of the drywall 1-1/2 inches from each edge with a utility knife. Snap the board, but instead of cutting the face paper, carefully peel the gypsum core from the face paper. After cleaning any remaining gypsum from the paper, test-fit the patch. To install it, smear drywall compound around the hole’s perimeter and firmly press the face paper into it. Use a drywall knife to remove excess compound. Two or three feathered coats of compound complete the repair.

Checklist:

Time- Allow 30 minutes to insert the patch and apply the first coat of compound

Tools:

• Square
• utility knife
• circular saw to cut plywood strips
•  jab saw
• drill/driver
• joint compound
• mud pan
• drywall knife

Skills:

Cutting drywall, driving screws, applying tape and joint compound

Prep:

Put down a dropcloth to protect finished flooring

Materials:

• Plywood strips
• screws
• scrap drywall panel for patch material
• drywall tape