DIY Projects

Now that the weather has turned nice, people are getting outside more. Time to get the bicycles out of storage and do a quick check to make sure they are ready to ride. So grab your channel lock pliers and a wrench or 2 and do some maintenence.

Check out the brakes and make sure that the brake pads are worn evenly, if there are ridges, they probably need replaced. If they are ok, reconnect the cables and squeeze the brakes. Do they strike the rim at the same time? Make appropriate adjustments to make sure they are even.

Make sure to clean your bike. Use a mild detergent such as Simple Green and a toothbrush to clean everything. Use as little water as possible. As you are cleaning, look for cracks or signs of wear.

Lubricate the chain with a non-petroleum lubricant, petroleum products pick up a lot of dirt. Do not use WD-40, it is more of a solvent, than a lubricant. Apply lubricant so there is an even coat on the inside and outside of each link and between the pins and rollers. Leave the lubricant on for a few minutes and then wipe off any excess. All the pivot points on the front and rear derailleur should be oiled. Apply a few drops to the brake lever pivots and to the exposed brake cable.

Clean the rims with rubbing alcohol, and check the rims for pits or grooves. Make minor adjustments as needed if the rims wobble, when spun around.

Elevate the rear wheel and spin the pedals, shift through all gears, making sure that each gear change is smooth. Some adjustments to the rear derailleur may be necessary if a gear skips.

Check the tread of the tires for worn knobs, uneven tread wear, or excessive wear. Replace tires if needed. There is nothing worse than having a blow out.

Is everything tight? Check all nuts and bolts on the bike. Do not over-tighten any of the quick releases or bolts.

Now go out and enjoy the beautiful weather.

Gluing clamps insure that glued parts bond firmly in exactly the desire position. Most clamps have one fixed and one movable jaw. While the fixed jaw is held in position, the clamp is tightened by means of a hand screw in the movable jaw.

Since clamps can do some damage to the material they are attached too, always use a piece of scrap wood, material, rubber, cardboard or other type of protectant as a buffer between the jaws of the clamps and your project.

Did you know that a dripping faucet can waste around 74 gallons of water a day.  That doesn’t sound like much but just image 74 gallon jugs of water stacked in a room. That is how much water is being wasted every by just one faucet.

So turn off the water and follow these easy steps:

• Open the faucet to relieve the water pressure
• Remove the handle.
• If the faucet has a metal nut holding the internal parts in place, use your channel lock pliers to tighten it. This may stop the leak.

If this doesn’t fix the leak continue on:

• Pull out the internal pieces with your pliers
• Replace the washers, O ring or seal. Make sure you get the correct replacement parts, or you will continue to have the same problem even though the seals and O rings have been replaced.
• Make sure there are no mineral deposits on any of the metal internal parts. If there are deposits, clean with vinegar and a scrubber. Be careful not to scratch the metal.
• Reassemble the faucet and turn the water back on.
• Turn the water back on and test the faucet to see if the repair has worked.
• Remember, there will probably be air in the line, so expect some sputtering.

First of all determine if the entire jamb and door needs to be replaced or just the actual slab. If only the slab needs to be replaced determine the size of the door. Measuring just the slab of the door from side to side will give you an accurate measurement. Most interior doors are all the same height, eighty inches. Proceed as follows:

1. Remove old door:

Gently tap the hinge pins from the existing door with a screwdriver and a hammer. Slide the pins out of the hinges while someone supports the door. The old door should come off without too much trouble.

Carry the old door to your work area, and remove all of its hardware with a screwdriver or a power driver. Place the old door on top of the new door you are going to replace it with. Since the old door fit into the doorframe, you can use it as a template to cut the hinge mortises and bore the lock set on the new door.

Make sure that all four edges of the two doors are perfectly flush and then clamp them tightly together.

2. Transfer hardware locations:

Begin by transferring the hinge locations. Use a combination square and lay it on the edge. Instead of using a pencil, use a utility knife to mark the location of the new hinge. This will give you a much sharper line and it will give you a place to set the chisel.

After marking the sides if the hinge mortise, use the combination square again to scribe the line across the bottom.

3. Make hole for latch set:

You will need a hole saw to cut out the large hole for the latch cylinder. Use the old door as a template so you will know exactly where the hole needs to be made. The thickness of the door will help keep the drill vertical. Push firmly down as you saw and stop drilling as soon as you see the pilot drill comes through the other side of the door. It is helpful if you can have someone else watch the underside while you drill.

Flip the doors over and use the small pilot holes as a guide and continue drilling from the other side. This will create a clean edge on both sides of the hole, which is well worth the extra effort.

Note:

It is important to hold the door firmly in a vertical position while working on the hinges and the latch hole.

Use a spade bit to bore a latch hole. This hole must be perfectly vertical. It is helpful to use the combination square as a guide.

Screw the latch bolt into place temporarily and scribe around the outside of the plate. Then it is time to do some chiseling.

 4. Chisel mortises:

First cut the edge of the mortise. The knife mark made earlier provides a shallow V into which you can set the chisel blade. This will give you much better accuracy than a pencil line would. A chisel has two sides, the bevel and the flat side. Remove material by placing the bevel side down. As you get closer to the proper depth, turn the chisel over with the bevel side up. With the flat part of the chisel against the flat surface you are working on, you can pair a little bit at a time to create a flat surface for the hinge.

5. Hinge installation:

When the latch bolt mortise is complete, turn the door over to make the hinge mortises as described above.

With accurate marking and careful chiseling, the hinges should fit perfectly.

6. Door installation:

After attaching the doorknob set to the new door, it is time to hang the new door. With a few taps on the pins the door-hanging project is complete.

Purchasing and Installing new Bathtub Faucets and Shower Heads can be a daunting task. There are several things to consider before purchasing. The style, the finish, and the flow. Traditional, modern, art deco, or with decorative elements, faucets come in a variety of shapes and styles. Chrome, brushed nickel, brass, copper, oil rubbed bronze are just some of the finishes, and the flow can be anything from one that saves water, to one that imitates rain, or one that massages, just to name a few features. But once the decisions are made, they pretty much all install the same way.

Install the valve:

Position the valve so the “UP” indication faces upward.

Connect the hot and cold water supply pipes directly to each side of the valve. Solder all joints making sure not to overheat the valve, which could damage it. 

Secure the valve inside the wall. To make sure it is solidly secured, screw it to a horizontal 2 × 4 in. part. If there is no such part at that location, install one. 

Reconnect the riser tube (or showerhead supply line to the valve) and the spout pipe (if applicable) by using appropriate connectors. If the valve is only for a shower installation (without a spout), plan for a ½ in. brass cap to block the outlet that will not be used.

After completing the walls and tile work it is now time to finish installing the faucet and shower head.

Install the decorative plate and the faucet handle:

Remove the protective template attached to the valve. Make the decorative plate slide on the valve. Position the plate hole(s) in front of the holes in the valve and screw. Now is the time to install the handle. Screw the handle adapter on the cartridge and, using the hexagonal Allen key, install the handle. It is important that the lever points downward when the faucet is shut. Make sure to read the instructions that come with your faucet for any differences in installation.

Install the shower head:

Some shower heads are fixed, others are removable (telephone shower) and attached to stems for adjusting the height to the user. It’s up to you to choose the model you like. Variable flow shower heads make it possible to adjust the water flow to gentle, strong or pulsating. 

Connect the upper outlet (drop ear elbow) to the shower head supply pipe, after applying Teflon tape to the filets, and then screw the drop ear elbow to a horizontal 2 × 4 in. part. Caution: just before screwing the connections, slide the flange to the end of the shower pipe, on the wall side. That way you’ll avoid damaging the chrome pipe. 

Wrap clockwise the shower head’s pipe filets with two or three layers of Teflon tape. Manually screw the shower head without tightening too much. Use an adjustable wrench to finish tightening with a ¼ turn.

If your set includes a flexible connector, install it now.

Most spouts are slid or screwed on a pipe. In either case, first make sure that the copper pipe has no defect or imperfection. The pipe’s cut end must be flawless inside and out. The rim must also be smooth, not sharp. 

Sliding spout:

Turn the spout on the copper pipe so that the setscrew faces upward. Tighten the screw moderately with the hegagonal Allen key. Then turn the spout to the normal position while making sure it’s well installed against the shower stall wall. Tighten the screw well with the hexagonal Allen key. 

Screwed spout:

Apply Teflon tape on the sleeve filets and screw the spout to the sleeve.

Finish the installation

Open the hot and cold water supply and inspect the connections to make sure there’s no leak. Open the faucet to the “lukewarm” position for at least one minute to release the air caught in the pipes.

Tools needed:

Drill, tubing cutter, multiuse wire brush, flame guard, propane torch, damp rag, channellocks.

General Instructions: How to Install a Bathtub

It goes without saying that bathtub installation is a two-person job at the least. Enlist the help of family or friends (maybe someone who owes you a favor) to ensure that your bathtub is installed properly and more importantly, that you do not hurt yourself.

Building codes vary, so make sure to check them before you begin your bathtub installation.

• Check the flooring – inspect the flooring to make sure that there are no damaged floorboards. Replace damaged floorboards and sub-flooring before moving on to the next step.
• Make a mortar bed – If you removed your old tub, then it is likely that the previous mortar bed has been damaged. Chip the old mortar away and make a new one. This can be done with thin-set mortar or concrete and should be at least an inch or two thick. The thickness and proper construction of this mortar bed is extremely important because this is what will be supporting the bathtub when it is at its heaviest, when it is full of water.
• Check your piping – All the piping must be completely installed before setting your bathtub into place.
• Install the tub – In this step, be sure that the tub is resting on and supported by the floor and not the bathtub rim.
• Nail the tub in position by hammering galvanized nails through the flanges. 
• Assemble the bathtub drain connections.
• Turn on the water to check for any leaks – Repair problem areas by refitting and resealing the pipes if leaks are found.
• Install faucet and shower fixtures.
• Seal the area surrounding the tub with silicone – It may also be a good idea to apply caulking to the areas between the bathroom fixtures and the wall to prevent water from seeping behind the fixtures and causing water damage.

Tools Needed for this Project Include:

•  Propane torch and soldering supplies• Hacksaw
•  Tube cutter
•  Drill
•  Galvanized nails and screws
•  Level
•  New bathtub
•  Safety glasses
•  PVC drain pipe, fittings, P-trap, and overflow pipe
•  Hammer
•  Copper supply pipe
•  Tape measure
•  Plastic shims

While working on the tear out, I had to shut the water off at the bathroom sink. The shut off valve was so corroded that I had to get my channellocks to unloosen it.

Since channellocks have right angle teeth grip in all directions they give maximum bite and minimum wear. They also have no slip jaw action which allowed me to get enough leverage to break away the corrosion and loosen the shut off valve.

When it comes to carpentry, the process of crafting wood is often just as enjoyable as the end product.  In a time when there is an electric equivalent to most of the standard hand tools, some people lose sight of the importance of appreciating the crafting process.  While crafting with electric tools can be enjoyable as well, using hand tools instead gives you a much better feeling of satisfaction with the completed project.  Hand tools were used for centuries to craft some of the most beautiful pieces of woodwork, pieces that look just as exquisite, if not more so, than the pieces created today with electric tools.  Choosing to use hand tools teaches carpentry as an art more than carpentry as a profession.

Chances are you might already have a set of hand tools somewhere around your home, but in case you don’t, you’ll want to cover the basics including a claw hammer, nails, hand drill, screws, wood glue, saw, miter box, measuring tape, ruler, level, and sand paper. With these you can create some beautiful pieces of wood art, and purchase more advanced equipment as your technique improves.

There are two common types of torque wrenches for home use; the “beam” type and the “clicker” type. Today we will talk about the beam type. The beam type torque wrench is the least expensive torque wrench.

The beam wrench works by the beam bending in response to the torque applied. This type is very simple, reliable, and accurate, and there is little that can go wrong with it when used properly. When tightening a bolt, make sure to only apply force in the center of the handle. This allows the beam to bend in the manner it was designed to indicate the correct torque. Do not over torque the wrench or the beam may bend permanently. Do not drop the wrench because rough handling can bend the pointer arm or pointer. If the pointer is bent, it can be bent back to the center without affecting accuracy. If the beam is bent it cannot be bent back.

Every homeowner should have at least one claw hammer in their tool box. Claw hammers are so named because the flat head of the hammer is asymmetric to the claw end of the hammerhead.

Claw hammers are most efficient and usually used while working with wooden surfaces.

A 16-ounce model is usually considered the most versatile. It is heavy enough to drive large nails and yet limber enough to be able to extract bent and broken fasteners with ease. For general use by a homeowner a finish head hammer is recommended, it has a smooth, slightly rounded striking surface on the head of the hammer. It will leave a slight indentation in the wood but usually does not mar the surface.