DIY Projects

Start by mounting the dispenser. Most are designed to fit in the extra hole in a sink top, but if this hole is already in use you’ll have to drill another in the sink or countertop. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the location and size of the hole. You should only drill only into a stainless-steel or porcelain cast-iron sink; if you have an all-porcelain sink, you will need to drill the hole for the dispenser through the countertop.

• Tap into the existing cold water supply line using a saddle valve, To install a saddle valve, first turn off the water supply and then open the faucet to drain the line. Following the manufacturer’s directions, drill a small hole in the supply line. Turn the handle on the valve to expose the lance that’s designed to puncture the pipe, and position the valve over the pipe so that the lance fits in the hole. Attach the back plate of the valve and tighten the nuts to lock it in place, and then screw in the lance.

• Position the cartridge filtration unit between the cold water line and the dispenser. Be sure you leave enough clearance between the system and the cabinet bottom to allow for cartridge replacement. Secure the device to the cabinet back or wall with the hardware provided.

• To hook up the device, cut enough plastic tubing to reach between the saddle valve and the system. Make it short enough not to kink, but long enough to allow for installing a new compression fitting if needed. Press the tubing into the compression fitting and thread it onto the saddle valve; tighten with your channellock pliers. 

• Insert the opposite end of the tubing into another compression fitting and thread it onto the inlet port of the filtration unit. Tighten the nut with your hand, and then make another turn or turn and a half with your channellock pliers. Finally, cut a piece of tubing to run from the outlet port of the system to the water dispenser. Insert compression fittings on both ends and thread the nuts onto the dispenser and the system. Turn on the water and open the water dispenser. Let the water run for about five minutes to flush out any carbon particles or air pockets.

Several years ago my wife and I remodeled our kitchen. We added new cabinets, new tile floor, and new granite countertops. When we were finished, there was just something missing.

I redid our recessed lighting by removing the fluorescent lighting and adding wood and can lights and that made a huge difference, then I started thinking about adding some kind of lighting that enhanced our granite countertop.

Using low-voltage under cabinet lighting fixtures made it very simple to install, and they are almost invisible since I was able to easily hide the wire for the transformers.

You can do it yourself and install these under cabinet lights if you can read and follow directions. The hardest decision was how to make them switch on and off. I prefer to have them turn on separately from the overhead lights. I also installed a dimmer switch with the lights. That way when we are working in the kitchen they are bright and then when we are done in the kitchen we can use them as night lights or as a dim light while watching TV.

Recently a friend of mine purchased a house at a foreclosure auction. Obviously, the price was right or he would not have bought it, to resell. Of course it needed some work done on it.

Replacing carpet, tiling the kitchen and bathrooms, and paint, you know, the stuff that you do to make a place look updated and clean.

Our next step was to replace the kitchen cabinets and build new laminate countertops. Installing new appliances and the transformation was complete. He sold the house in less than a week, at a decent profit. Now he is looking for another one.

A watched pot never boils. But why watch a pot when you can get near-boiling water instantly from a faucet?  Having instant hot water can be a life saver when you’re busy and need to make soup, tea or sauces. Instead of waiting for a pot of water to boil, you can have instant hot water by installing a hot water dispenser under your kitchen sink. In most cases, a hot water dispenser can heat water up to 190 degrees. Installation may vary, depending on the unit and manufacturer, so be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions.

However, here are some basic guidelines that can help you.

Provide Location for the Dispenser:

Step 1

Decide where you want to install the hot water dispenser on your kitchen sink .

Step 2

Make knockout on the top of your kitchen sink if one does not already exist. To do this, you will need to drill a hole into the sink countertop by using a stainless steel drilling bit or a drill designed to cut into porcelain.

Step 3

Hold the drill steady and let it do the work. You can also remove your spray hose or replace your existing faucet with one that uses fewer holes.

Install the Dispenser:

Step 1

Turn off the cold water valve from under the sink or turn off the main water supply to your home.

Step 2

Mount the dispenser bracket under the sink at least 3ft. from the sink bottom, depending on the amount of tubing provided, and near the power outlet. The manufacturer will provide a wall mount bracket. Mark the bracket holes on the wall, make sure they are level and pre-drill the holes. Screw the bracket into the wall with the screws provided and hang the water dispenser on the bracket.

Step 3

Run the dispenser tubing through the hole you drilled in the counter top and fit the dispenser in place. You will want to have someone hold the dispenser in place while you work under the sink to secure it.

Step 4

Place the washer along with the mounting nut provided over the threaded rod. Secure the water dispenser by tightening the mounting nut.

Step 5

Attach the water supply to the dispenser tank using the compression fitting or nut provided by the tank manufacturer. Make sure the line is square to the valve, and then tighten gently with your hand. Finish tightening the compression nut with a wrench and be sure you do not over tighten.

Step 6

Use a saddle valve or a T-fitting with shutoff to connect the hot water dispenser unit to the home’s cold water supply line. Be sure you have checked the local plumbing codes first. Place the saddle valve over the water line and tighten it into place. Turn the valve clockwise, piercing the cold water supply line until the water stops flowing. Most likely you will need to use a compression fitting or nut to connect the water-supply line to the saddle valve.

Step 7

Connect the dispenser cold water, hot water and the overflow lines from the dispenser faucet to the hot water dispenser tank, using the fittings provided by the manufacturer. Attach the hot-water tube from the water dispenser tank to the dispenser faucet using compression fittings or nuts. Then, connect the overflow line from the dispenser faucet to the tank with spring clamps. All of the locations for the tubes should be marked clearly.

Step 8

Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks. Open the saddle valve on the cold water line and let the water run through the pipe.

Step 9

Open the dispenser faucet to release any air from the lines and until the water runs at a steady flow and fills the hot water dispenser tank.

Step 10

Fight the urge to plug your hot water dispense into the plug for your garbage disposal. The dispenser would only heat when the garbage disposal was switched on!

Step 11

Plug in the hot water dispenser unit. If the unit begins to steam or sputters, decrease the temperature.

Tips & Warnings

• The majority of hot water dispensers will plug directly into a 115 or 120 volt GFCI outlet located under the sink. If you do not have one, you will need to have one installed by a licensed electrician. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions provided with the dispenser.

• Check with your local authorities to see if a permit is required for installation of the dispenser unit.

• Always wear safety goggles, a dust mask and gloves.

• The hot water dispenser will burn up and be ruined if you plug it in before filling the tank with water!

Things you’ll Need:

•   Drill and drill bits
•  Adjustable wrench
•  Screwdriver
•  Slip-joint pliers
•  Level
•  Safety goggles
•  Saddle valve
•  Gloves

Would you like to update your kitchen or laundry room by installing new cabinets? It doesn’t necessarily mean you need to hire a professional–but it does take a fair amount of do-it-yourself skills and basic tools. Installing them level, plumb, and flush with each other is critical to ensuring that they work properly and look great.

The first wall and base cabinets are key–if you get them installed level from back to front and side to side, the other cabinets should follow suit. It’s easiest to start with the wall-mounted cabinets so the base cabinets won’t obstruct your work.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a perfectly parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line to the floor to find the floor’s high point (if it has one), and mark a line at that point. From there, measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top of the base cabinets.

2. From the 34 1/2-inch line, measure up another 19 1/2 inches and mark a level line across the wall to indicate the bottom of the wall cabinets. Lightly mark the cabinets’ dimensions and placement on the wall to double-check your layout.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs, and then, with a pencil, mark their locations above and at least 6 inches below the mark you’ve made for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and bottom marks to indicate the center of the studs.

4. Screw a temporary 1-by-3 support rail to the wall, aligning the top edge of the rail with the line for the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving three or four 2-inch screws through the rail into the wall studs. 

5. Install the corner wall cabinet first, with a helper. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its support rail and into the wall studs. Screw the cabinet to the wall using two screws that are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches, and then check the top for level and the front edge for plumb. To correct the position, back off the screws, tap shims behind the cabinet at stud locations, and then drive the screws home and add several more into each stud for secure attachment.

6. Install the adjacent cabinets. As you install each one, secure it to its neighbor with a clamp and check it for plumb. On face-frame cabinets, it’s easiest to drill two 1/8-inch pilot holes through the sides of the face frame and use screws. With frameless cabinets, drill bolt holes through shelf-peg holes, and then bolt the two together. Be sure not to fasten through shelf-peg holes that you will need for shelves.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base cabinet. If necessary, use shims to level it and raise it up to the high point of the floor, so its upper edge aligns with the line on the wall. Be sure it is level from front to back and from side to side, and then screw it to the wall studs.

8. To turn a corner with base cabinets, push the adjoining cabinet in place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow doors and drawers clearance. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and level.

9. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this manner, joining them as you did the wall cabinets in step 6. Be sure the lower cabinets line up with the upper ones.

Tools recommended for this job include:

• Carpenters Level
• Chalk Line Reel
• Drill-Driver Bit Set
• Carpenters Square
• Curved Claw Hammer
• Measuring Tape – 25 foot
• Power Drill
• Stud Finder
• Wood Clamps
• 2” Deck Screws

Whether you’re replacing an old garbage disposer or installing a new one, it’s an easy job. You don’t need to be a master plumber or a licensed electrician to complete the job effectively. It does help if you know a little bit of each, however these instructions should help even if you don’t.

Always shut off the power to the circuit that will serve the disposal before beginning any work. If you’re replacing a disposal, turn off the electricity to that circuit and unplug the disposal or disconnect the wiring before removing the unit. Test the bare ends of the wires with an digital multimeter to make sure they are not charged. To provide better access and make the work easier, you may be able to temporarily remove the cabinet doors under the sink. When working under the sink, wear safety glasses.

Some tools you will need for this job include:

• • A bucket and some rags
• • Plumbers putty
• • Putty knife
• • Screwdrivers
• • Hammer
• • Wire strippers
• • Wire nuts and electrical tape
• • Pipe wrench or tongue and groove channellocks

1. After cleaning out everything under your sink, the first step is to remove the existing strainer from the sink. Under the sink, place the bucket under the “J” trap. Use the pipe wrench or channellocks to loosen the slip nuts and remove the “J” trap. Dump the water in the bucket.

2. With the “J” trap removed, look for the large nut that holds the strainer in place. Remove the nut.

3. Remove the strainer and clean up any old plumber’s putty that was left behind. You may need to use the putty knife to pry the strainer up to remove it. It’s important that the sink be totally clean of old putty and debris.

4. The next step is to open the new garbage disposer and install it. The first piece you’ll need is the sink flange and mounting assembly. The mounting assembly consists of an upper mounting ring, a lower mounting ring and the mounting bolts. Take a nice amount of plumbers putty and form a ring around the drain. Take the sink flange and set it in the drain. Press it down slightly onto the putty.

5. Under the sink, take the gasket and mounting ring and slide them up the flange. You may need a second pair of hands to keep the flange stable on the top side. There should be a snap ring that you can connect to the flange to keep the gasket and ring secure.

6. Tighten the mounting bolts to bring everything together. There are three bolts, and it’s important to tighten them evenly through the process. As the mounting assembly tightens, plumbers putty will squeeze out from under the flange in the sink. That’s OK – simply wipe the excess away.

7. Now it’s time to wire the disposer. On the bottom side of the disposer you should see 1. A red reset button, 2. A flywheel turning wrench hole, and 3. The cover plate for the electrical connections. Remove the cover plate. You should see a trio of wires – a black, a white and a green (or bare copper in some disposers).

8. The garbage disposer kit should include the cord and plug, so remove it from the box. The wires should be pre-stripped, but if they’re not, use the wire strippers to remove about 3/4″ of insulation. The side of the disposer should have a hole with a romex connector already in place. Slide the cord through the hole so that the black cord sheath is under the connector’s metal. Tighten down the bolts on the romex connector to hold the wire in place.

9. Use the wire nuts to make the necessary wire connections (black to black, etc.). Secure the wire nuts with electrical tape and neatly stuff the wires back into the chamber. Replace the electrical cover.

10. If you do not have an installed dishwasher, you can proceed to the next step, but if you do have one, then there’s an extra step. On the side near the top of the disposer you will see a close-ended tube coming out the side. That is where the dishwasher inlet line gets hooked up to. Simply take a screwdriver and hammer and chisel out the plug. It will usually fall into the disposer, so just turn the disposer over and the piece of plastic will fall out. If you have no dishwasher, or if you have the mobile kind that hooks directly up to the faucet, then leave the plug in place.

11. Now it’s time to mount the disposer. Under the sink, line up the disposer with the mounting assembly. You will see where the three “ears” on the disposer should lift into. Once the “ears” are into the assembly, turn the disposer to lock it into place. It could take a few tries and the disposer may get heavy, so just take your time and don’t get frustrated. You will feel it lock into place. You will still be able to slightly turn the disposer, but everything will get tightened down at the end.

12. Next connect the plumbing. You may need to turn the disposer slightly to line everything up. If you have a dishwasher, the drain line gets connected to the inlet port that you knocked out earlier. Odds are the “J” trap you removed earlier will not line up with the garbage disposer, so you may have to cut some PVC plumbing pipes to make everything fit correctly. Be sure to use the nylon washers at each lock nut.

Note – When connecting the pipes, make sure you slide the lock nut on the pipe first, then the nylon washer.

13. Connect the plumbing and make sure all the lock nuts are tight and that the disposer line is tight. Near the mounting assembly is a rotating cam collar. With a screwdriver or wrench for leverage, tighten the collar down. This will lock the disposer into place and solidify the installation.

14. Now check for leaks. Turn the faucets on and let water flow through the disposer. Inspect every locknut and seal for leaks. Tighten anything that needs it. Turn your dishwasher on and make sure the connection to the disposer doesn’t leak. If everything stays dry, you’re good to go.

15. Turn the power back on to the under sink outlet. Plug the disposer into the outlet and with the water running, hit the switch. You should hear the beautiful humming of your new disposer.

Note – Never run the disposer without the water running.

Congratulations! You just installed your very own garbage disposer.

If your laminate countertop is starting to lift up, it is an easy fix to repair it. Simply apply contact cement to both surfaces, the underside of the laminate and the countertop and press the laminate back into place.

If the edge of your laminate countertop is damage, and you are unable to repair it, remove the edge with a putty knife. Using a heat gun or an iron will help to soften the glue and make it easier to remove. After removing the damaged piece, sand the surface, apply contact cement and apply a new edge. If you are unable to match your countertop, be creative. There are many different laminates available, make the edge different.

It has often been said that the kitchen is the heart and soul of many homes. You can update your kitchen simply by installing laminate countertops. Laminate countertops are beautiful, affordable, durable, and easy to maintain.

No matter what your budget or style, you can find a product to fit your needs. Whether your style is new and fresh or retro and chic, a new look is yours for less and there are hundreds of colors and patterns to choose from. Laminate offers the widest array of designs of any surface material.

But where is the fun in hiring a pro to update your kitchen? Do-It-Yourself.

If you have patience and a love of do-it-yourself projects, and like saving money, then Do-It-Yourself. Installing laminate countertops is a weekend project for the confident do-it-yourselfer. Just gather up these tools, and start your kitchen transformation.

Tools needed:
Measuring tape
Laminate
Utility knife or special laminate scoring tool
Clamps
Straightedge
Contact cement
Paint roller with cover for contact cement
Rubber roller for laminate
Router
Paintbrush
Lattice
Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
NIOSH-approved respirator

Once you have installed new laminate countertops, it is time to caulk them. Wilsonart has 100% siliconized acrylic caulk that is color matched to any of their laminates. No mixing, no color charts, just purchase the caulk that is the same name or number as the laminate you picked.

Wilsonart Color Matched Caulk is stain, mold, and mildew resistant, stays flexible and is water resistant.

• Use painters tape, masking tape or any type of tape that doesn’t leave a residue to mask off an area to keep caulk over seam. Allow for approximately ¼” or less of caulking area on each side of the seam.

• Caulks, especially silicone, work better at room temperature, so bring it inside the night before and let it warm up. It will bond better and smooth more easily.

• Cut the tip off of the caulking tube at an angle, close to the tip. A smaller opening helps avoid overfilling the joint. Pierce the seal of the tube and slowly squeeze the tube while watching for the caulk to become visible at the end of the tube.

• Apply caulk. Run a bead of caulk directly over the seam. By providing steady pressure to the caulk tube, move along the seam at a steady speed. Work on an area no more than 2 to 3 feet at a time. Smooth over the entire length of the applied bead of caulk in order to straighten it out and further force the caulk into enough surface contact to establish good adhesion. This is called “Tooling”. You can use your dampened finger or various tools like a spoon, a shaped piece of wood, or a foam paint brush. Tool the caulk until you are satisfied with the appearance. Keep rags or damp paper towels handy to clean up any problem areas right away. It is much more difficult to clean up dried caulk or caulk that starts to skin over. Repeat this process until entire countertop edge is sealed.

Tip: Caulk is made not to flow, so tooling is critical to force it into good contact with the substrate.

The choice of tools that you will need to cut laminate with will depend upon the project, however, I would highly recommend a pair of Laminate Shears. They are capable of making straight cuts in all types of decorative plastic laminate, and have a patented, ‘double action’, hardened steel cutting blade.

Laminate Shears cut without binding, and will not crack or chip the decorative surface. Widely used by professional and do-it-yourself installers for rough cutting laminate before cementing in place.

There are a few different types of shears but the most popular are the Straight Cut Version. They are efficient for cuts on any lengths. Your hand is positioned over the top of the laminate and they are designed to cut with a single blade cutting into the decorative surface.

They can also be used to cut the irregular contour line for the laminate piece that fits between a wall and the backsplash top. They have vinyl coated handles for comfort, and the spring return handles can be locked in the closed position.