DIY Projects

The other day I was helping a friend’s son do a brake job on her van. After we were done with the brakes we were putting the wheels back on and I was explaining to him how to make sure that we did not over tighten the lug nuts.

After checking the owner’s manual to see what the correct torque should be, I showed him how to use the torque wrench. By presetting the calibration, the torque wrench will get to the desired tightness and the clutch will slip, signaling that it is time to stop tightening. This keeps you from over tightening the lug nut, but also insures that it is tight enough.

There are several types of torque wrenches but this is my preferred version.

Recently my wife and I decided to replace the outdated ceramic tile in our house. The first part of the project was to actually take up the tile. So with hammer and chisel we started chipping away. We knew that most of the tile had not been laid properly and for the most part it would just pop up. This took us about 2 days. The thin set that it was laid with was a different story though.

We tried scraping the thin set up with a hand scraper. That was a back breaking job that took forever with poor results. Next I found an attachment made by Milwaukee tools that attaches to a sawzall. They make a 1 ½” and a 3” scraper blade. This is mostly meant to take up paint and lightweight glues, however, I thought I would see how well it worked on thin set. Where the thin set and tile had been laid incorrectly, the scraper blade did a good job, just popping the thin set right up. But where the thin set had actually been set correctly the blade and saw just didn’t have enough strength to get the job done.

Finally, I went to our local home improvement store and rented a small demolition tool, with a scraper blade. Within 3 hours, I had chipped up all of the thin set.

So, the moral of the story is to always use the right tools, and don’t try to use your tools for things they are not meant to do.

Using your pipe wrench turn the hose fittings counterclockwise.

Inside each of the hose fittings are little screen filters, make sure they are clean. Remove them and run clean water through the filters until they are clean.

Check to see if the pump motor is running. If it is not running, use your voltage meter to check the plug socket where it is plugged in. If there is power at the socket but the motor is not running, the motor is burned out and needs to be replaced.

If the motor is running and there is still no pressure to the sprinklers, there is a leak. It might not be a water leak. Air leaks can bleed the pressure and won’t allow the unit to function properly. Using your screwdriver, remove the screws holding the pump together. Where it comes apart there will be a main seal, and there should be a rubber gasket. Check the gasket for any rips or tears. If you find any, replace the gasket.

Secure the gasket area with Teflon paste. Coat the gasket with a heavy coating of Teflon paste. Join the two halves and screw them together. This should solve all air or water leaking problems.

Recently I was at a local recreation center and noticed that one of the card tables had its top replaced with a piece of laminate.

I spoke to the lady in charge and she said that the table top had been all ripped up and one of the volunteers took it home and cut a piece of laminate to fit. He then routed the edges and glued it down. The laminate made a perfect finish for the card table. The ladies could use it to cut material and not worry about damaging the finish and it also made a great finish to play cards on.

With the summer storm season approaching, now would be a good time to replace any damaged roof shingles you have.

If you have any leftover shingles from the original job, use those. If not go to your local hardware or home improvement store and purchase replacement shingles that match yours.

Lift up the tabs of the shingles above the damaged shingle or shingles. Use a flat pry bar to pry out the nails. Pull out the damaged shingles and clear away any debris.

If the felt underlayment is damaged, cut a piece that is at least 6 inches larger than the damaged area in both directions and slip it into place before replacing the shingle. Drive a couple of staples to hold it in place.

Starting at the bottom and working up, install the replacement shingles. You will have to lift up shingle tabs to drive some of the nails.

Before installing the topmost piece, apply a bead of roofing cement to its underside, near the top. Slip the shingle into place, lift up the tabs above, and drive nails.

Tools needed for this project:

• Utility knife
• Tape measure
• Flat pry bar
• Stapler
• Hammer or roofing hatchet
• Trowel
• Caulk gun

How many times have you had to miss part of your favorite show to let your dog outside?  This problem can be easily fixed by installing a doggie door.

It is an intermediate do-it-yourself project, and it will give your dog freedom and unlimited access to the outside.

Pet doors come in many sizes, so it is important to measure the largest pet that will use the door. Measure your dog from the top part of its shoulders to the lowest part on the chest and add 2 inches. Also make sure that it is at least 2 inches wider than your dog.

 **Make sure your dog is full grown and allow for any weight gain.**

Tape a template to the door, outlining the doggie door, making sure it fits where you want it and there are no problems.

Use a 1/2-inch drill bit and work 4 holes into each corner of the drawn outline. Once this is done, change the drill bit to a 3/8-inch piece and drill the holes for the outer surround.

Make sure that the larger holes in the corners stay inside the outline.

Using the jigsaw, insert the blade into 1 of the 4 1/2-inch holes and begin cutting along the outline. Once finished, the inner section can be removed

Insert the flap-less outer surround into the hole from the exterior side of the door. This should lie flush and can be modified using the small break off levels on the inner part of the surround. Use the pliers to break of these levels until the entire outer surround sits perfectly against the door.

Screw the outer surround into place using the 3/8-inch holes as a guide.

Caulk the inside edges of the outer surround to make it air tight once the flap is fitted.

The flap can now be screwed into place on the interior side of the door on the section provided. Be careful not to over-tighten as this can cause splits in plastic models.

The pet door is ready to use. Encourage pets to use the pet door by coaxing them with gentle nudges and an occasional treat!

It was suggested to us to hold the flap up for a while so your dog can get used to going through the opening first. Put a treat on one side and when the dog goes through to get it show them that there is another one on the other side. Do this several times and they quickly learn to go through the door.

Have dull scissors? Not to worry, sharpening them with a Rotary Tool is a simple and easy way to sharpen them.

• Separate the scissor blades by unscrewing the screw found in the middle of the scissors.
• Place one of the blades in a bench vise with the sharp edge facing outward. Make sure you pay close attention to the shape of the blade. One side of the blade should be angled downward resulting in the sharp edge, while the other side will not be. Position the scissors so that the angled side faces upward.
• Insert the bit into the rotary tool and turn it on. (Use an aluminum oxide grinding stone # 932)
• Hold the Rotary Tool at a 10 degree angle and grind.
• Continue grinding along the length of he scissor blade at this angle until the entire edge is sharp.
• Remove the blade from the vise and insert the other blade. Sharpen the second blade just like the first.
• Reattach the blades by inserting the screw and tightening it up.

Make sure to always wear safety glasses.

To get started prepare the damaged area by removing all old texture from it. Next, sand it smooth, if any of the damaged texture remains, your new texture may not stick. Prime the damaged area

Match the texture of the area that you are patching. To get a close match, use a paint additive instead of a premixed spray-on texture. This will let you to have more control over the size and concentration of the aggregate used to get the popcorn effect. Aggregate comes in fine-, medium- or coarse-grade aggregate. Mix a small batch and paint it on a spare piece of plywood or drywall. Gradually add aggregate until you’ve matched the existing ceiling

Protect the area around your targeted area. Cover them well, because this texture technique is quite messy. Have water and rags or sponges available to quickly clean any messes that may spread beyond your protected area.

Apply the texture. You can use a roller for most areas. If the repair is close to a wall, you can use a brush or edger to get into the areas the roller can’t reach. Apply the first pass until it overlaps the existing texture.

Randomize the effect. Without dipping your roller or brush back into the texture, go back over the area in several directions, applying from the wet areas to the dry areas. This minimizes any pattern that may develop from the first application. Don’t overwork the area. You should stop after a minute or two of working.

Allow the area to dry. If the repaired area has less texture than the existing ceiling, you can add a second coat of texture. If it’s acceptable, paint the repair using the same paint used on the rest of the ceiling.

Remember to always wear goggles or safety glasses and any other appropriate safety equipment.

 Step 1: Turn off the Power:

• Always remember to flip off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse when working with electricity.

Step 2: Determine Center:

• If there is no central light fixture, determine where the center of the room is and if need be move a little off center just far enough between the joists to fasten the side of the fan’s new junction box directly to the joist.

Step 3: Install Junction Box:

• Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. If it’s next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist. Attach the box to the joist with the two 1 1/2-inch No. 10 hex-head screws provided. Drive in the screws with a drill/driver equipped with a 5/16-inch nut-driver tip.
• Installation between joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2×4 header nailed between the joists. If there isn’t a 2×4 you can insert one through the junction box’s hole, nailing it to each joist. If you can’t insert one, you may have to make a bigger hole and patch it later.

Step 4: Assemble the Fan:

• Be sure to follow the specific instructions with the unit that you buy. Regardless of the manufacturer’s instructions, if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver’s length away from the ceiling, it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan.

Step 5: Install Hanger Pipe:

• The hanger pipe is usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. The wires are then drawn up in the center. A set-screw is tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in place after it is threaded down.

Step 6: Attach the Fan Blades:

• To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be stable.
• Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need to be tightened, but do not over tighten. Do not damage the threads or the finish on the blades. On some fans you’ll see the flanges, or prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.

Mounting the Fan to the Box

Step 1: Install Hanger Bracket:

• Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. Using lock washers will help prevent fan vibration from loosening the screws over time.

Step 2: Wire the Unit:

• Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.

Step 3: Ground the Fan:

• The fan should be electrically grounded to both the metal box and the fan. The grounding wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will make your work easier. Use a wirenut to ground the wires from the box; the fan and the power supply together.

Tip: If the fan wobbles when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced. To correct this, try interchanging two adjacent blades. If that doesn’t work, take all the blades off and weigh each one on a food or postal scale. If any is underweight, tape a soft object such as a pencil eraser or modeling clay to the top center of the blade, making its weight the same as the others. Fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available. Reinstall the blades and the fan should run smoothly.

Start by mounting the dispenser. Most are designed to fit in the extra hole in a sink top, but if this hole is already in use you’ll have to drill another in the sink or countertop. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the location and size of the hole. You should only drill only into a stainless-steel or porcelain cast-iron sink; if you have an all-porcelain sink, you will need to drill the hole for the dispenser through the countertop.

• Tap into the existing cold water supply line using a saddle valve, To install a saddle valve, first turn off the water supply and then open the faucet to drain the line. Following the manufacturer’s directions, drill a small hole in the supply line. Turn the handle on the valve to expose the lance that’s designed to puncture the pipe, and position the valve over the pipe so that the lance fits in the hole. Attach the back plate of the valve and tighten the nuts to lock it in place, and then screw in the lance.

• Position the cartridge filtration unit between the cold water line and the dispenser. Be sure you leave enough clearance between the system and the cabinet bottom to allow for cartridge replacement. Secure the device to the cabinet back or wall with the hardware provided.

• To hook up the device, cut enough plastic tubing to reach between the saddle valve and the system. Make it short enough not to kink, but long enough to allow for installing a new compression fitting if needed. Press the tubing into the compression fitting and thread it onto the saddle valve; tighten with your channellock pliers. 

• Insert the opposite end of the tubing into another compression fitting and thread it onto the inlet port of the filtration unit. Tighten the nut with your hand, and then make another turn or turn and a half with your channellock pliers. Finally, cut a piece of tubing to run from the outlet port of the system to the water dispenser. Insert compression fittings on both ends and thread the nuts onto the dispenser and the system. Turn on the water and open the water dispenser. Let the water run for about five minutes to flush out any carbon particles or air pockets.